I stayed the weekend at this new St Andrews hotel and it's beyond fabulous

Paul Reid

From our first floor terrace, we look out to West Sands and the Old Course.

The statue of Old Tom Morris at Bow Butts is being smooched by a teenager, while this summer’s swallows loop-the-loop.

We’re at the new five-star boutique hotel Seaton House. To be honest, I’d come with zero expectations, but I’m utterly smitten by this new 42-bedroom addition to the town.

I’ve stayed at most of St Andrews’ established hotels, but this place - owned by Valor Hospitality Partners - is easily the most appealing. There’s that view, but also, the charming service, and the Victorian building. It was built as two townhouses, one of which was a boys’ school, but they were merged, and, from the Thirties onwards, the property was The Scores Hotel.

Budget or boutique?

Boutique. Rooms start from £200.

Room service

There is a tendency for St Andrews hotels to go for a masculine US style, to suit their golfing clientele. Seaton House makes reference to the game, but softens and modernises the look, with just a touch of tasteful tartan.

Our 387sq ft Junior Suite with Sea View - one of nine suites and junior suites, three of which have garden or sea views - is set across two levels, which gives it a theatrical feel, with light flooding in from the huge windows. On the upper mezzanine level is a comfortable seating area, and a telly inset into a panel, so you can rotate it and watch from the super king bed or sofa. The lower level area has tub chairs and a desk, as well as a huge marble clad shower room with Natura Bisse products. It’s all very ergonomic, but beautiful, too. Maybe the nicest room I’ve ever stayed in.

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Wining and dining

It’s home to two restaurants: chef Roy Brett’s seafood venue, Ondine, and The Board Room, where they serve charcuterie, cheese and seafood boards. Ondine has a gorgeous turquoise tiled bar, with honey-coloured parquet floors. From seagulls to surfers, there is always something to watch from the windows. I’m happy to sample Roy Brett’s food again, since he shut his Edinburgh branch. We tried the scallops with bacon jam; lemon sole; monkfish poivre and chips, with zingy sorbet for pudding.

On night two, there are old fashioneds in the wood-panelled Bow Butts bar, before we head to The Board Room to try ALL their platters. When in Rome. The seafood version features Welch Fishmongers’ wares, with hot smoked salmon, wild halibut and other piscine goodies. Their IJ Mellis cheese selection includes five slabs of fromage, including St Andrews Cheddar, and Wee Comrie, along with oatcakes and other accoutrements. While the meaty version is East Coast Cured and Peelham Farm’s finest.

They also serve breakfast in this bright space, with its velvety russet seating. Among other things, it includes dishes like the glorious cinnamon granola with apple compote, an excellent pain au raisin, or Newhaven smoked salmon and scrambled eggs.

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Worth getting out of bed for

The hotel can organise a selection of activities, from private shopping in Araminta Campbell’s atelier, to clay pigeon shooting, or an outdoor yoga session followed by a steam in the nearby Wild Scottish Sauna. We try the alpaca experience at Bowbridge Farm, which is led by owner Alison Johnson. They have a herd of around 60, and, first, we feed the babies for a cuteness overload. We learn how to herd them into a pen, and train them to allow a harness to be slipped over their fluffy noses, before leading them on a mini assault course. Afterwards, we do a bit of felting, with their wool, and take home our dinky alpacas as souvenirs. I wish we could smuggle away a full-sized one, too.

Little extras

The mini bar is gratis if you’re staying in a suite, so help yourself to juices, beers, and Tunnocks galore. Our room also features a carafe of Kingsbarns whisky, and a large sweetie jar full of mints. On the ground floor, you’ll find the hotel’s garden view bijoux gym, should you need to work off the cheese. In this busy part of town, the hotel helpfully has a small car park out back, and valet parking.

Guestbook comments

Absolutely STUNNING property.

76 The Scores, St Andrews, (01334 796 700, www.seatonhouse.com)