What happens when you give Rome a miss and explore beyond its borders? Scotland on Sunday Travel

A fig tree, dropping with fruit, ruffles in the breeze. My guide, Federica, points and cries: “The typical Roman breakfast – focaccia, ham and fig! It’s the perfect balance of sweet and salty. But these figs are unlike anything you would get in England.”

And neither are the views.

A vast turquoise lake stretches out below me, fringed by dark green pines. High up in the hills, I can just make out tiny paddle boarders on the surface of the water. In the distance, the pale blue Mediterranean Sea twinkles.

The town of Ariccia,Castelli Romani. Pic: Sophie Goodall/PA

As for the Roman breakfast – we are only a stone’s throw away from the Italian capital.

I’m in the picturesque town of Nemi, one of several medieval villages making up the Castelli Romani region, which sits within the crater of the ancient volcano Vulcano Laziale.

It’s situated on the southern lip of Rome – only 22km from the city centre, made accessible by a direct train service that speeds through the Lazio countryside in just under half an hour.

An escape from the city

Lake Nemi, in the Castelli Romani region of Italy. Pic: Sophie Goodall/PA.

While the Eternal City is packed with iconic attractions and a bustling atmosphere, extending my city break to take in calming vistas of winding hillside trails, chestnut trees and quaint villages was too inviting.

With its high altitude and wide open spaces, this sunny region has its own refreshingly cool microclimate, making Castelli Romani a popular holiday destination for Romans – including several popes, who had a summer residence here in Castel Gandolfo and there is much to discover behind the facade of these quiet villages with their deserted town squares.

Community identity

Nemi is a vision of paint-peeled, sun-bleached buildings with wooden shutters and terracotta tiles but it’s prettiest attraction the vast lake at the bottom of the valley. The mineral-rich soil of its banks are perfect for growing the tiny wild strawberries that have become synonymous with the village and celebrated in an annual raspberry festival.

The town of Nemi is one of many quiet villages in the Castelli Romani region on the outskirts of Rome. Pic: Sophie Goodall/PA.

Neighbouring town Ariccia takes great pride in its porchetta, a joint of slow-roasted pork sliced wafer-thin, and is home to the fraschetta, a rustic restaurant typical of the region. At Osteria N.1 I devour a platter of juicy and tender porchetta, served with apple slices, olives, and ricotta doused in honey.

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The volcanic soil is also great for growing grapes. At Tenimenti Leone, an organic winery outside Lanuvio, the Alban Hills protect vines from the cold, while cool winds from the coast regulate hot temperatures, making production high.

The 72-hectare estate features 11 vineyards of native varieties - bellone, malvasia puntinata and cesanese, made under the Roma DOC and Lazio IGP designations - which can be sampled on a tour (from €35/£30pp).

Tenimenti Leone winery in Castelli Romani, Italy. Pic: Sophie Goodall/PA

Ancient architecture

From caves to churches, Castelli Romani is an area renowned for ancient architecture and the picturesque town of Castel Gandolfo, by Lake Albano, is a shrine to the work of Baroque architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who designed Rome’s Spanish Steps and St Paul’s Basilica. Piazza della Libertà, the town’s main square, is the perfect place to sit at an outdoor cafe and sip an espresso, overlooked by the large church of Collegiata di S Tommaso da Villanova. Inside, in typical Bernini style, it’s a marvel of white arches gilded in gold and colourful religious artworks.

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Visit in spring and autumn (being sure to avoid religious holidays) to avoid the heat, and by following in the footsteps of Italy’s many wise popes, a heavenly, hillside destination awaits.

How to plan your trip

ITA Airways (ita-airways.com) operate a new nonstop route between Rome–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) and London City Airport (LCY), with business class available. Flights also available from Manchester, Bristol, Newcastle and Glasgow.

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