We do the West Highland Way the easy way

Let Macs Adventure take the strain out of walking with a self-guided trek from Milngavie to Fort William

West Highland Way

Scrambling along the rocks on the shoreline of Loch Lomond, nor long after we’d started our 96-mile walk up the West Highland Way from Milngavie to Fort William, following the route threaded between tiny beaches and the water to the left and the wooded bank rising up to the right, I could hear the couple in front bickering. They were straining under the weight of massive backpacks containing camping equipment and not for the first time on our eight day hike, I gave thanks to the brilliance that is Macs Adventure.

We were unburdened by rucksacks and worries about accommodation thanks to the travel company who have more than 20 years experience of arranging your route, lodgings each night and transporting luggage by vehicle so you literally don’t have to do all the heavy lifting on this and 500 other self-guided trips to 40 countries.

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Buachaille Etive Mòr from the Devil's Staircase, one of the best views on the West Highland Way. Pic: J ChristieBuachaille Etive Mòr from the Devil's Staircase, one of the best views on the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie
Buachaille Etive Mòr from the Devil's Staircase, one of the best views on the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie

I wanted to walk the West Highland Way with friends but didn’t fancy camping or carrying a heavy backpack so for us Macs Adventure were the perfect solution - and judging by the amount of luggage they were transporting, we were very much not alone.

With a website and app that contains personalised route details, which you can download to save battery and data usage, they’re with you every step of the way, including 24/7 phone support too. Detailed route descriptions include distances, elevation and points of interest, GPS tracking and mapping, so it’s as easy as following a blue line on a screen and checking your daily Itinerary at night over tea and shortbread in the comfort of accommodation that went beyond my expectations.

For me early summer and autumn are the best times to do the Walk, without midges and you might hit good weather like us. Miraculously in this wettest of summers, we only had one day of rain, when seven hours of continuous downpour eventually seeped through every layer of clothing and required a long soak in the bath, accompanied by a large tumbler of whisky to get warm again.

Macs Adventure are very good at reuniting you with items left behind in overnight accommodation as their vans ply up and down the route with luggage all day, so a jacket was deposited at that night’s destination before it was even missed.

One of a herd or wild goats near Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way. Pic: J ChristieOne of a herd or wild goats near Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie
One of a herd or wild goats near Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie

Day One Milngavie to Drymen, 12.5 miles

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After overnighting at the Premier Inn in Milngavie, where cars can be left free for a charity donation, this was an easy walk along a path beside fields and birch and oak woods alive with willow warblers and cuckoos, with a drop into Glengoyne Distillery to keep the spirits up.

Accommodation: Braeside B&B provided a spotless, comfortable and very peaceful overnight stay following a hearty meal at the atmospheric Clachan Inn, reputed to be Scotland’s oldest licensed pub.

Day Two Drymen to Rowardennan. 14.5 miles

Easy walking on the Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse leg of the West Highland Way. Pic: J ChristieEasy walking on the Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse leg of the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie
Easy walking on the Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse leg of the West Highland Way. Pic: J Christie

Here the path follows the lochside, and there’s clambering over rocks and through trees, past tempting tiny beaches and cascading waterfalls, with stunning views of the loch, especially from the top of Conic Hill.

Accommodation: Rowardennan Hotel is in a beautiful location with lochside views. The bar was busy with walkers and day trippers, lured by the location and great bar food and this was one of my favourite overnight stops.

Day Three

Rowardennan to Inverarnan 14.5 miles

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The view of Ben Lomond and the loch from the Rowardennan Hotel. Pic: J ChristieThe view of Ben Lomond and the loch from the Rowardennan Hotel. Pic: J Christie
The view of Ben Lomond and the loch from the Rowardennan Hotel. Pic: J Christie

More lochside clambering leads to open hillside walking above the loch and coffee at Inversnaid hotel enroute. After dropping into Doune Byre Bothy for a nosey, we headed on to Beinglas and softer beds.

Accommodation: Beinglas Farm with its clean and comfortable chalet accommodation and campsite, with bar and restaurant, has a tempting menu and hearty breakfasts. The historic Drovers Inn with its quirky taxidermy is worth visiting for a pint.

Day Four

Inverarnan to Tyndrum 12 miles

After enjoyable varied terrain but continuous rain with little shelter, we were grateful to squelch into Tyndrum with its cosy pubs and grub, The Green Welly Stop selling all manner of tempting waterproofs and excellent drying facilities at Tyndrum Lodges.

Accommodation: Tyndrum Lodges. Clean, comfortable, warm and the baths and showers with lashings of hot water and communal dry room were appreciated.

Janet Christie at the official end of the 96-mile West Highland Way in Fort William. Pic: J ChristieJanet Christie at the official end of the 96-mile West Highland Way in Fort William. Pic: J Christie
Janet Christie at the official end of the 96-mile West Highland Way in Fort William. Pic: J Christie

Day Five

Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy 7 miles

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Our shortest day with easy walking along glens scented by bog myrtle, and along a General Wade Road and we arrived early at the picturesque hotel nestled by the famous bridge. An excellent residents’ lounge and busy bar allowed us to relax and watch more ambitious walkers power by and red deer nibbling nearby gardens - a reminder you’re in the Highlands.

Accommodation: Bridge of Orchy Hotel. This was probably my favourite overnight stop for its convivial atmosphere and location, facilities and the excellent restaurant menu which included Taynuilt venison loin, veggie haggis with mashed tatties and neeps and a Scottish Cheese Selection with Clava Brie, Blue Murder ‘by the drummer from Blur’, according to the waiter, and Arran Smoked Cheddar.

Day Six

Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse 12.5 miles

For me this final stretch from Bridge of Orchy to Fort William is the best, and the leg to Kingshouse rewards you after a day walking through forestry and above glens, with the Glen Coe ski centre’s cafe/bar with spectacular views of Buachaille Etive Mòr and Glen Coe, before dropping down to the road running through the glen.

Kingshouse Hotel (owned by the same group as Crieff Hydro) has a stunning location and superior rooms and restaurant with views and an evening meal menu to match, where highlights were local salmon, pan fried duck and Devil’s Staircase gin brewed in Kinlochleven.

Day Seven Kingshouse to Kinlochleven 9 miles

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After a climb up the Devil’s Staircase with stunning vistas back to Buachaille Etive Mòr and Glen Coe, you’re high in open countryside. Away from any traffic on Rannoch Moor there are spots beside streams to stop and dangle your feet in the water and watch lizards sunning, before the long descent to Kinlochleven serenaded by stonechats, meadow pipits and ravens.

Little Yoke B&B, 3 Lochaber Crescent, Kinlochleven, PH50 4QS is a gem of a spot to spend the night, tucked into a row of houses, with friendly owners, bright, fresh accommodation and a delicious home cooked breakfast.

Day Eight Kinlochleven to Fort William 15 miles

Our last day’s walk zigzagging steeply up out of Kinlochleven to The Lairig Mor or Big Path along a gorgeous high valley before winding down through woods in the shadow of Ben Nevis. Arriving in Fort William is bittersweet but after reaching the statue at the official end of the West Highland Way in the High Street we celebrated with great value Indian food at Spice Tandoori before the traditional comforts of Myrtle Bank Guesthouse, a Victorian property with beautiful loch views and a final hearty breakfast.

Myrtle Bank Guesthouse, 8 Achintore Road. Fort William PH336RQ

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Our adventure was at an end and it was time to toast ourselves and promise we’d do more guided treks. With Macs Adventure you can’t go wrong. You just have to put one foot in front of the other and they do all the rest.

Plan Your Trip

See the www.macsadventure.com

Plan your trip

Macs Adventure’s 9-day West Highland Way itinerary starts from £815pp, including eight nights in B&Bs, small hotels and guest houses. Breakfast and daily luggage transfers included. Detailed route notes and maps available in smartphone app and 24/7 telephone support. Macs donate £5 for every adventurer who walks the route with them to crucial trail maintenance. Book now for 2024 and 2025. www.macsadventure.com | 0141 530 8886

Macs Adventure: 9-Day West Highland Way Itinerary: Duration: 9 Days & 8 Nights. Price: Starting from £815pp: Accommodation: Charming B&Bs, Small Hotels & Guest Houses. Included: Daily Breakfasts, Daily Luggage Transfers, Detailed Route Notes & Maps via Smartphone App, 24/7 Telephone Support. Path Maintenance: Macs donate £5 per adventurer to vital trail maintenance. Booking: Available now for 2024 & 2025. www.macsadventures.com 0141 530 8886.

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