"It's so naughty". Meet the chef behind Edinburgh Old Town restaurant added to Michelin Guide

We asked chef a few questions

Lucia Gregusova is the head chef of new Edinburgh Victoria Street restaurant, Whirlybird, which was recently added to the Michelin Guide.

What is your first food memory?

Eating thick pancakes with homemade apricot jam, filled with quark cheese, lemon and raisins soaked in rum. My grandma used a special cast iron skillet for them, and if I could bring it from home I would.

How would you describe your cooking style?

It’s rustic style cooking and trying to not over complicate the food. I focus on implementing my food memories from home and my travel experiences into the dishes.

What's your ultimate guilty food pleasure?

That would have to be a poutine. We make a charcuterie sauce for some of our special dishes and we use at the end of the night to make a treat for ourselves. It is so good and naughty at the same time.

What is your favourite food destination, outside Scotland?

It was San Sebastián until my recent visit to Japan. We stayed in Kyoto and Osaka and ate so much. Anything from simple ramen in small shops, to Wagyu beef, fried octopus, sushi or street food, we were never disappointed. All the food was so well cooked and flavourful.

Favourite cookbook and why?

It’s a cookbook by Julia Child, called Baking with Julia. It was my first cookbook when I started to work in the kitchen back in the US. That book taught me a lot about patience and precision.

What’s your favourite Scottish restaurant/cafe/bar/deli?

There are so many amazing places in Edinburgh and Scotland, so it’s really tough to choose. A place that sits really high on my list is Kinneuchar Inn. The food is amazing, so fresh and well cooked.

Favourite ingredient?

My favourite ingredient would have to be a humble potato. They are so versatile and we use them a lot in our Slovak food. Anything from eating them fresh from the garden with simple butter and herbs, to using them in making dumplings or savoury pancakes, you can’t beat them.

Worst ingredient?

There really is not much that I don’t like. Perhaps tripe, as I don’t have fond memories of the smell and texture when I ate it as a kid.

What has been your biggest kitchen nightmare?

I can’t recall many disasters in the kitchen luckily, but there have been plenty of really bad days for sure. One recent one was when a chef didn’t show up on New Year’s Eve. I had a full new menu to cook and a fully booked restaurant. I was so upset and desperate. Two of my chefs called me and said they could come in on their day off to help. We just made it. What started as the worst day turned out to be one of the best ones. I couldn’t have been more proud of the team.

Who would you invite to your fantasy dinner party and what would you eat?

I would invite my family and my friends as they helped me to be the chef and person I am today. I don’t get to cook for them, as I have lived abroad for so long, and moved around. I’d have a huge open fire in the garden and cook everything just using wood or charcoal. There would be prime ribs, prawns and pork belly, grilled vegetables, homemade sausages, potatoes from the fire and apple pie that’s been cooked in cast iron skillets.

And what are you up to these days?

I managed to get a week away and go back home to spend it with a family. Now it’s back to a restaurant to work on some new dishes, get ready for Christmas and to work on a new project coming next year.