Big Stars - Michelin Starred chefs tell us how they feel about the award in covid times

After a tough year, the latest round of Michelin Stars were announced on 25 January 2021 (after moving from the original October 2020 date).

They might seem a bit irrelevant at the moment, when employees are on furlough and we can’t visit restaurants. Fine-dining seems like a very exotic and alien thing after months of home-cooking, comfort eating and takeaways.

Perhaps, once all this is over, we’ll find that our tastes will have changed permanently?

Still, there’s no doubt that the award is still aspirational, and thanks to the brilliant Cail Bruich and its head chef, Lorna McNee, Glasgow has bagged its first Michelin Star in 18 years

We asked a few top chefs and restaurateurs if their feelings have changed about the award.

Geoffrey Smeddle of The Peat Inn (retained their Michelin star for the 12th consecutive year), near St Andrews

“We’ve always cherished having a star and it‘s even more beneficial at times when the business is under stress. There’s no question it attracts guests and also potential employees. Having a Michelin Star is an international badge of quality and consistency. In my opinion it reassures guests that they can have the confidence to place their trust in us.

The Peat Inn

Retaining our star is a mixture of being delighted and relieved, because you can never take it for granted. Your performance is under constant scrutiny. You live with the pressure that the Star is re-awarded or removed every year. Everyone here deserves to pause and reflect and be very proud.

All good news is welcome at any time but especially now. It will be something tangible at a time of uncertainty. I know we will be busy when we reopen, because we’ve been full at every point when the pandemic regulations allowed us to be open. We’re very proud of the support that has built up over the past 14 years. I think people are desperate to travel, having been so restricted for so long, so as soon as they’re allowed to, we will expect to welcome guests from far afield, as well around the corner.

We are blessed to be supported by loyal locals who always are the backbone of any good restaurant. We can’t wait to get back to looking after everyone again as soon as possible. There is no greater privilege than to be of service.

I haven’t done any restaurant style cooking during lockdown at home, I would need more space and more help! Instead, I have tried to focus on light, healthy meals. I make soup every other day; I was really enjoying making my own puff pastry in the house until my jeans began to get a bit tight”.

Billy Boyter

Billy Boyter, chef/owner of The Cellar (retained its Michelin star for the fifth consecutive year), Anstruther

“I still feel very privileged and proud to hold a Michelin Star. It’s always a fantastic feeling and a proud moment when you retain it, but having a Star or gaining one has never been my driving force at the restaurant. It’s the hunger for knowledge and to continually improve and refine what we do that drives me.

The time off has given me plenty of time to think about what I want to achieve at the restaurant, and I can’t wait to get back.

The reaction and demand we had after the first lockdown was extraordinary. I think guests truly appreciate what we do and I think the demand for restaurants of all levels after this is over will be massive. People will still travel to visit good restaurants, I know I will. But our local guests have always been our bread and butter. Without them we wouldn’t be here.

Graeme Cheevers

Our cooking style hasn’t changed because of the pandemic, but we always want to improve. The restaurant will evolve and change naturally as time goes on. Over the last year I have made new friends and found new suppliers that are going to help me improve what we do at The Cellar”.

Graeme Cheevers, chef and owner of Unalome (due to open in Glasgow later this year), Michelin Star aspiring.

“The pandemic has made myself and other chefs more hungry to refine and refocus what we do and I think we have more of a desire to achieve great things post-covid. A Star is a much-needed level of reward and it’s what I always aim for as recognition for all the hard work that goes into achieving the very high quality standard that Michelin look for.

With travel restrictions likely to be around for quite some time, I feel that diners will be looking for a more unique and quality style of dining and be more willing to explore Michelin starred establishments locally, rather than going abroad for quality food and drink. It will be good for the industry in the UK.

The style of food I offer will not change post-pandemic. During lockdown, I have been cooking lots at home, as most chefs have, to keep themselves busy and occupied, but on a professional restaurant level I have managed to use this time to reflect and refine what I do and incorporate new techniques. When I return to the restaurant I hope I can deliver greater dishes to my guests”.

Conor Toomey of Condita (retained its Michelin Star for the second year), Edinburgh, read our review

Conor Toomey

“The pandemic has increased the value of a Michelin Star and it’s always an honour to receive one. We’re very, very happy. It's always good to have some positive news in tough times. I think the pandemic may make diners even more discerning and it may increase demand."

A message from the Editor:

Thank you for reading this article. We're more reliant on your support than ever as the shift in consumer habits brought about by coronavirus impacts our advertisers.

If you haven't already, please consider supporting our trusted, fact-checked journalism by taking out a digital subscription.