What happened when I stayed the night in a Northumberland doocot

The pigeons have all moved out of this bolthole

I’ve stayed in safari tents, shepherd’s huts, treehouses and yurts, but never a doocot.

These structures, otherwise known as columbarians, were used to house pigeons and doves, which were kept for their meat, eggs and dung.

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The Dovecot at Reedsford in North Northumberland was built for that purpose in the 18th-century, and was virtually derelict until owners, Wild Plum, reimagined and refurbished the Grade II listed property, then offered it as quirky and dog-friendly self-catering holiday accommodation last year.

The Dovecot exterior Pic: Tracey BloxhamThe Dovecot exterior Pic: Tracey Bloxham
The Dovecot exterior Pic: Tracey Bloxham

Now, it’s part of Crabtree & Crabtree’s portfolio of luxury holiday homes.

The architects added a south-facing extension to the original structure, so there’s just enough space inside for a couple to nest comfortably. However, they managed to retain the quirky character.

We especially loved that the inside of the building is still lined with the dinky pentagon-shaped coops, where the birds would roost. They’ve been sealed with a white cork and lime plaster, which gives the interior an adobe-like feel.

Now, instead of feathered friends, these nooks are filled with books, detailing local walks, and useful objects.

Kitchen area in The Dovecot Pic: Tracey BloxhamKitchen area in The Dovecot Pic: Tracey Bloxham
Kitchen area in The Dovecot Pic: Tracey Bloxham

On our weekend visit, we’re welcomed with goodies including, among other things, a posy of wildflowers, lemon drizzle cake, and muesli from the nearby Heatherslaw Corn Mill.

These are served up in the biggest room - the open-plan kitchen and living space. It’s the new part of the building, on the ground floor, with an oak bench, farmhouse-style furniture and a small dining table pour deux, a squishy sofa and a smart kitchenette.

This area also has a view out to a small patch of lawn, with a bench and picnic seating.

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Beyond that, and before the lush hillside backdrop, there’s a field’s worth of cows.

Forget about the telly, as they are surprisingly entertaining. Once every hour or so, the entire herd will start galloping, for no particular reason, in one direction, before resuming normal service, or they will stand stock still, and stare into the doocot.

The double-glazing means you can barely hear them moo. If you go outside, they will come up to say hello, though the grass isn’t always greener, as they rejected my handfuls. My favourite coo was the Highland-Toffee-coloured one.

There are also plenty of baby rabbits to watch, as they scramble around the roots of the birch trees outside, and we spot a tree creeper hopping round one of the trunks.

The property also includes a mezzanine that boasts a Smart TV and wood-burning Salamander Hobbit stove, which heats the bedroom above with its insulated flue. This level also features the bathroom, with dappled moss-green tiles around the tub and a handheld shower.

You’ll have to tackle a small metal staircase at bedtime.

The king-sized bed is up in the tower’s eaves, and features a cupula and tiny windows in some of the old pigeon coops, so it’s flooded with diffuse light.

At one point, we can hear coo-ing up here. Are they the spirits of former residents, or is there one on the roof?

If you want to fly off and explore, there are plenty of footpaths to tackle nearby, and you’re near the Northumberland National Park and the Cheviot Hills.

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The Dovecot visitor book includes lots of recommendations. After browsing page one, we deliberate over a Farne Islands boat trip, and think about heading to Chillingham Castle, to see the wild cattle, who are white and look quite different from our new friends.

In the end, we settled on heading five minutes along the road to Heatherslaw Light Railway on the Ford and Etal Estates.

Our carriage was the steam train, Bunty, who took us on a sedate 20 minute journey to Etal.

There is nothing quite as relaxing as chugging along beside the water, with the steam draping behind like a silver feather boa. It was quite meditative, with the occasional gallous pheasant sighting to keep things interesting. No otters were spotted in Etal river, sadly, though they say it’s a possibility.

In the village of Etal, you’ll find Lavender Tearooms, where they serve Northumbrian singing hinnies, as well as the 14th century ruin that is Etal Castle, which is free to explore, and The Black Bull inn - the only thatched pub in Northumberland.

We got the return train times wrong and ended up spending a lot longer here than we’d originally intended.

On our return, we dropped in at Doddington Dairy Milk Bar in Wooler. The ice-cream is great, but the Cuddy’s Cave cheese is even better.

We took a block of that back to our Doveot. It was instinctive. We’d become homing pigeons.

Two nights at The Dovecot at Reedsford available through Crabtree & Crabtree from £373. To book visit www.crabtreeandcrabtree.com or call 01573 226711

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