Review: Railway House York – mansion meets self-catering apartments – Scotland on Sunday Travel

After a million pound makeover, this self-catering apartment in a former mansion a great base for discovering the city’s Georgian past

Mansion House, in the heart of York. Pic: Olivia Brabbs/York Mansion House

York really is a tourists’ playground echoing with its Viking, Roman, mediaeval, ecclesiastical and military past. Each time I visit I find another layer to discover.

Coming from Edinburgh with all the New Town’s elegant sandstone terraces, I had overlooked York’s Georgian past but it’s there for all to see ... in brick. These substantial rusty red buildings reflect a prosperous period when York was the social capital of the north. They reminds us that Georgian society enjoyed itself: the racecourse, Theatre Royal and the Assembly Rooms all date back to this era.

Although the Industrial Revolution mostly bypassed York, towards the end of the Georgian period, the railways arrived and one of those involved in that industry was Henry Tennant, the general manager of North Eastern Railway, and the owner of a large mansion on Holgate Road, not far from York’s main station. Built in the 1850s, what is now called Railway House has just had a lavish £1 million makeover, transforming what were latterly offices into eight luxury holiday apartments.

The living room in one of the self-catering apartments at Railway House, York. Pic: Contributed

I’m in Platform 8 on the top floor, plotting my exploration of how the city might have looked before Mr Tennant’s house was built.

Budget or boutique

This self-catering accommodation is stylish and bespoke with the on-trend quality that staycationers are looking for. A lovely garden is an added bonus, as is the car parking with electric charging station. A bus stops outside for the short ride to station and Minster.

Room service

A shower room at Platform 9, Railway House York. Pic: Contributed

Platform 8 has two double bedrooms and a luxury shower. The light-filled living space has ample room for four and the kitchen is top end. When the building was renovated,

owner Neil Cook took the opportunity to add the latest technology, so there is smart central heating, induction hob, hot water tap, wine fridge and coffee machine. The interiors are by Lucy Seddon of Helston Street, and although the flat has an urban vibe, it is softened by natural elements with bold floral cushions popping on the crisp white bedlinen. Raw wood walls and dried flowers extend that natural feel.

Wining and dining

Staying in self-catering accommodation makes eating out an adventure. York has so many places to dine it’s often an “I don’t know where to start” scenario. This time, I took up Neil’s recommendation of Fish and Forest on Micklegate, just within the city walls and only a mile from Railway House.

Railway House York has been transformed into eight self-catering apartments. Pic: Contributed

This is styled as a neighbourhood bistro but chef Stephen Andrews’ food is drawing people from far and wide. My thick slices of monk tail and cubes of crisp apple were drenched in a warm apple-y gravy making one of the most delicious starters I’ve had this autumn. The main course also delivered a plateful of flavour. The wild duck soaked up the rich earthy sauce beside the crispy Jerusalem artichokes. A delicious salted caramel and chocolate tart was set off beautifully by orange infused cream.

In contrast to my taste for culinary adventure, I tend to stick with scones on my coffee stops. I can report those at Sketch café at York Art Gallery are excellent. But

whoever at Bar Convent thought to serve cool cream cheese and chutney with toasted cheese scone is a pure genius. That said, the display of home-made cakes – in both

cafes – were very tempting.

The kitchen at Platform 9, Railway House York. Pic: Contributed

Worth getting out of bed for?

To find out more about Georgian society I started with a visit to York Art Gallery to see what they looked like. William Etty was a respected – if controversial – artist born in

1787 in the city, and his statue greets you at the gallery entrance. Inside there are several of his works including some of the city’s prominent figures and a staircase

lined with portraits by some of the most important artists of the Georgian era. York’s landowners and merchants declared their place in society with mansions. Not

one of the largest, but certainly one of the best preserved is Fairfax House and it makes a delightful introduction to how the Georgians lived in the city.

At the heart of civic life in York is the Lord Mayor and in 1732 the Mansion House was completed. There are elegant official rooms, secret Jacobite signs and quirky

architectural features, revealing the complicated strands of Georgian society where the wealthy and influential Catholics of the area had to keep a low profile. It is also a

fascinating insight into the modern working life of the city’s Lord Mayor.

Secrecy is at the heart of Bar Convent. At a time when it was illegal to be Catholic in England, a community of widows had been running a school for girls since 1686 just

outside the city walls at Micklegate Bar. In 1769, the sisters extended the front of their buildings in fine Georgian style and at the same time, but out of sight, they had a glorious chapel built. There is a priest hole and secret lookouts and the dome is hidden from outside under a pitched slate roof.

Little extras

Although self catering, there are thoughtful touches such as coffee pods and the welcome bottle of Prosecco. The sauna will be an additional bonus when it’s operational.

Guest book comment

Take a fresh look at a familiar city from a different perspective.

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Fact File

Prices are from £200 for two in a double room with en-suite shower room and free-standing bath, or £450 for six with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. Railway

House, 128 Holgate Road, York, YO24 4DL, www.railwayhouseyork.co.uk

Fish & Forest, 110 Micklegate, York, YO1 6JX, www.fishandforestrestaurant.com

The Bar Convent Heritage Centre, 17 Blossom Street, York, YO24 1AQ,

barconvent.co.uk

Fairfax House, Castlegate, York, YO1 9RN, www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk

York Mansion House, St Helen’s Square, York, YO1 9QL, www.mansionhouseyork.com

York Art Gallery, Exhibition Square, York, YO1 7EW, www.yorkartgallery.org.uk

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