Fashion: Kestin Hare

As Kestin Hare opens his new Cruiser Store in Leith, we catch up with the Edinburgh-based menswear designer for a look at his new spring collection, Northern Shores

Kestin Hare Sutherland Trucker £229, Inverness Trouser £119, Northern Shores Collection, sunglasses, prismlondon.com. Photographer Richard Gaston, model David Cooper

Who are you? How old are you? Where are you based?

Kestin Hare, Menswear Designer and Retailer, Director of Kestin Hare Ltd. Aged 38. Based at The Cruiser Store, The Shore, Leith.

What is your training/background?

Northumbria University 1st class BA hons degree in Fashion Design and Marketing, followed by working in the design team at Reiss, Burberry and became head of design of Nigel Cabourn.

What is your aim?

To create quality menswear, made in the UK whenever possible.

What’s different about your product?

I spend a huge amount of time travelling around the world sourcing unique, quality fabrics and then manufacturing the garments in the UK, as local manufacturing is important to me, and also to my customers.

When did you start the company?

I have been doing this for over 15 years now but started my own brand, Common People, in 2010 and then sold it in 2014 before starting KESTIN HARE in 2014 with my Japanese business partner Masataka Fujino.

What challenges have you faced?

Trying to make it in a very niche and highly competitive industry has been challenging. And now the ultimate challenge is trying to grow and sustain my own business in some of the most difficult retailing conditions for years.

What is the fun part of your business?

I love the travel element so much. But the best part for me is when you see your friends, or seeing anybody really, wearing your clothes. I’ve enjoyed 
seeing my designs on the big screen 
and dressing the cast from T2 Trainspotting was a real highlight. Watching the film was so much fun, seeing Spud puke up in a plastic bag round his head wearing my top was a very proud moment.

How has it evolved? Why open in Leith?

First and foremost it was about creating a unique retail experience for our customers, a space they would feel comfortable in and inspired by. When the opportunity came up to join the Custom Lane project I jumped at the chance; this is how to keep retail relevant, collaborating with other like-minded businesses to redefine the community and provide a real reason to come and visit a physical store. Leith is such a fantastic area in Edinburgh, and while it’s not known for its retail, it is known for its creativity. We wanted to take a risk and be a modern brand which does things its own way and builds its own community and future.

What have you learned?

Retail is unpredictable and you will drive yourself mad trying to predict it. You don’t need to pay big rents in prime retail spots. It is all about the net profit at the end of the day and whether you can hold your head high and be proud of what you have created.

What is your most popular product?

At the moment our garment dyed over shirt. It is a layering piece which people are buying into. Also they like the fact it is collarless which is a modern take on heritage.

Who are your customers?

We have a really diverse demographic. Our customer profiles vary from 20-year-old guys buying it, and then bringing in their 60-year-old dads who also become fans of the brand. Leith is like Edinburgh’s answer to Shoreditch, filled with creative types who are interested in design so we are in very good company.

Which items do you have at home from your range?

Quicker to say what I don’t have. It’s like going back to school with your name tags on everything, I like to try and keep an archive of everything I have done.

What are your goals?

To continue to try to make our mark as one of the most respected menswear brands in the country, and to continue making the best products in the UK. I want to build a strong Edinburgh-based design team creating jobs and a reason for design graduates to stay in this country and not have to go to London to work in this industry.

What’s your style/design philosophy?

Always look back to look forward, to design something new in any discipline you have to know your history.

Where are your products made?

We make trousers in Manchester, jackets in London, shirts in Wolverhampton, knitwear in Leicester and Alloa, technical outerwear in Cumbernauld and some shirts and jerseys in Porto in Portugal.

Who has influenced your style?

People I have worked for and closely with, particularly Nigel Cabourn.

Who are your style icons?

When I was younger Kurt Cobain, but now I’m a bit more into Steve McQueen. Oh and I also think Tom Hardy looks great; we’ve been dressing him for a new film role.

Who are your favourite designers?

Helmut Lang, Dries Van Noten, Comme Des Garcons and Junya Watanabe.

What is your inspiration?

Anything and everything. Collecting vintage garments, fabric innovation, modern art, architecture, street style and travel.

kestinhare.com