Travel: Seattle – Why there’s more to this city than Starbucks - a food and drink guide to the emerald city

Seattle has a thriving food and drink scene. Pic: Rachael Jones

Seattle is home to Nirvana, Frasier and Starbucks but behind the popular culture, there’s a host of innovative and community-minded food and drink businesses, finds Rosalind Erskine.

If you’re looking to book a holiday that’s based around good food and drink in America, you may overlook Seattle. The emerald city is synonymous with grunge music, the birthplace of Starbucks - when it was just what we’d know today as a normal coffee shop - and seen on the small screen as the home of Frasier and Grey’s Anatomy. To overlook its food and drink scene would be a missed opportunity to try some very good meals and wines.

I visited Seattle in mid-March to find out about the city’s food and drink scene, which is intrinsically linked to a sense of community. The timing of my trip coincided with Taste Washington, an annual celebration of the state’s wine, which has grown to also showcase the best food. Our base was the stylish, downtown Lotte hotel. A design-led abode, which hails from South Korea, what could be mistaken as a dull business hotel is actually teeming with art thanks to room designs from Philippe Starck.

The perfect weather – bright, sunny, blue sky days that show off the city’s proximity to the North Cascades mountain range and Mount Rainier – was ideal for our first trip, an early morning pit stop to Pike Place Market, the oldest continuously operating farmers’ market in the USA. You can’t visit Seattle and not spend some time in this warren of food, drink and gifts - overlooking the Elliott Bay waterfront on Puget Sound. We placed our order at the hatch at Ghost Alley Espresso, near the bubble gum wall (which is exactly as it is named), a tiny coffee spot who make a delicious much-needed flat white. Fully awake, we witnessed the famous Pike Place fishmongers throwing fish (and shouting) before meandering through the market sampling local honey from Sunny Honey and spiced tea from Market Spice. Local fruit and veg is on display at Sosio's Produce while African spice rubs, tea and sauces can be picked up from Land of Origin. While very much focused on food and drink, the market also has a community spirit, and is home to the Pike Place senior centre, which serves free breakfasts and lunches and also offers food bank services. Another business in Pike Place that’s catering for all is Atrium Kitchen - a modern commercial kitchen available for rent by community groups, individuals, chefs and market vendors - run by the inspiring chef Traci Calderon, one of many who during covid put their skills to feeding those in need. We were also the first to try the new breakfast bowls of cultured gelato at Hellenika, a new solo venture by owner Alex Apostolopoulos and his siblings where we witnessed it being made.

Seattle sits on Elliott Bay, Puget Sound, and is overlooked by the North Cascades mountain range and Mount Rainier. Pic: Terry L Wallace

Next stop was Communion for lunch with chef Kristi Brown, a 2024 nominee for the James Beard award. Chef Kristi and her son opened Communion in 2020, but she has been in hospitality over 25 years, making a name for herself with her That Brown Girl Catering business. After selling her delicious black eyed pea hummus in shops, she gave up catering and reimagined That Brown Girl Cooks as a food, culture, and community organisation. Her mantra is “Everybody’s Gotta Eat” and, only four years in, Communion is ensuring just that. The hummus is a must-try as is the shrimp toast and clam dish.

With a quick pick me up needed, we stopped off at Overcast Coffee, a small coffee shop and cafe in Capitol Hill set up by Jonathan Pak who sources coffee and ingredients from small, local businesses. A shot of espresso and we were off for a dram at Westland distillery, a ‘love letter to Scotland’ according to Master Distiller, Tyler Pedersen, on our tour. They follow the same methods as Scotch - malted barley, oak barrels for ageing and pot still distillation.

While Seattle is home to whisky distilleries, Washington state is home to a plethora of wineries. In order to find out more and sample some, both Taste Washington events and a trip to Woodinville - a city about half an hour outside Seattle - offer ample opportunities.

Taste Washington

Pike Place Market, Seattle, the oldest continuously operating farmers’ market in the USA. Pic: Rachael Jones

The Seattle based festival, Taste Washington is one of the biggest and best food and wine festivals in the Pacific Northwest. In March, numerous events take place across the region. Featuring over 250 wineries alongside some of the state’s best restaurants. We were lucky enough to attend the Taste Washington: Pacific Standard event with the beautiful backdrop of the Puget Sound - and a glimpse of the famous Space Needle. With seafood and tastings of white and rose on the menu, the BBQ salmon and chowder competition were our favourites. Next night, at the same venue, was Taste Washington: The New Vintage, with a focus on red wines and small bites from local chefs, as well as live music. These are all tasters of the main event, The Grand Tasting at the Lumen Centre, housing over 200 wineries and bites from over 75 restaurants. Splurge for a VIP ticket for early access, and give yourself time to meander through the stands, for tasters of wine and food. There are interesting talks and brilliant bubbly and bingo.

For a city break with the option to escape the buzz and enjoy excellent wine, not to mention shopping and beautiful views (weather permitting), Seattle has it all. There’s a thriving community of interesting and delicious restaurants, cafes and bars all waiting to be discovered, so look beyond the green mermaid and you won’t be disappointed.

Factbox

Flights

Elliott Bay, Seattle waterfront. Pic: Rachael Jones

Virgin Atlantic and Delta fly daily from London Heathrow to Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. A nine hour flight, you’ll be well fed and watered on the day time Virgin flight. One of the flight attendants on the Virgin flight, Mel, was brilliant to chat to, and very helpful with luggage and food and drinks.

Return fares with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Seattle-Tacoma International Airport start from £522.

Hotel at London Heathrow

We used Holiday Extras who booked a seamless stay at the Sofitel at Heathrow terminal 5, where you can fly into from Scotland with BA. The hotel is stylish, quiet and an ideal way to kick off this transatlantic trip. Find out more and book through Holiday Extras at www.holidayextras.com

The city hosts Taste Washington, an annual celebration of the state’s wine, which has grown to also showcase the best food. Pic: Rachael Jones

Taste Washington returns every year, for more information: https://www.tastewashington.org/.

A night at The Lotte Hotel starts from £266.

For more information on Seattle, please visit: visitseattle.org

Holiday Extras is the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers. Booking an airport hotel means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, you can cancel or amend without charge. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.

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