The relaxing break District

Comfort and style in a Royal Oak room

It’s a good job the Lake District is so enticing or I’d never have ventured out of our suite at the Royal Oak, Keswick. Sitting on the characterful Main Street of the Cumbrian town, the historic former coaching inn – part of the Thwaites group – has modern rooms so cosy we relaxed the minute we opened the door. There were country colours, tweedy fittings, local sweeties by the pillows, a cute sheep tea cosy, a very mini-fridge indeed, Borders biccies….

Perfect for the more tasteful end of the tourist market, the vibe of the rooms is somewhere between simple and sophisticated. It feels like home, but a wee bit swankier. Our generously sized suite is divided into bedroom area, lounge and bathroom, with not one, but two large-screen tellies. The bathroom is a dream, with slick fittings, a fabulously powerful shower and White Company toiletries, the bedroom luxurious and the sitting room a delight.

The hotel restaurant means there’s no need to go out on a dreich night looking for great food. We hunkered down and enjoyed the best Cumberland sausage and creamy champ mash I’ve ever had, courgette and pesto linguine, sticky toffee pudding and Yorvale ice cream. You want starters? How about seasonal soup, and chipolatas with honey mustard glaze (yes, I ordered sausages for both savoury courses, my brain is mince, but didn’t regret it for a minute).

The calm of Derwentwater

After a great night’s sleep on our very comfy bed we wandered down to the Derwent Pencil Museum - Keswick was the home of the world’s first pencils. We entered via a replica graphite mine, like the one which spawned the pencil industry over three centuries ago. Case after case pencilled in the details, from the industry’s beginnings as a cottage industry to modern day mass production. One of the largest coloured pencils in the world, measuring almost eight metres, is undoubtedly impressive but the real stars of the show are the Second World War pencils made in secret by a master craftsman for Britain’s spies, containing miniature compasses, maps on silent silk and more gimmicks worthy of Q himself.

After that, fresh air seemed in order, and Derwentwater, five minutes from the town centre, was the place to take it. Known as the Queen of the Lakes for the way it’s cradled by the surrounding fells, Derwentwater is three miles long, a mile wide, and a fantastic gateway to some of the area’s best-known landmarks. As well as having been a landing spot for the local mining industry, in the 18th century it was an inspiration for Lakeland poets such as William Wordsworth - a legend on the outside of the Royal Oak also namechecks Sir Walter Scott, who wrote part of The Bridle of Triermain here.

The weather didn’t make walking the fells the most enticing prospect for two city softies, but the town was heaving with pre- and post-yomp people, resplendent in outerwear that puts practicality above style… a long way above. If you do go uphill, the Royal Oak’s public bars are the perfect place to relax after a day’s exploring. As well as that delicious pub food and refreshing pints of Thwaites ale, there are seasonal menus and classy cocktails.

Steve and I, though, hopped onto a lake cruise and discovered the body of water’s four islands, Derwent Isle, St Herbert’s Island, Lord’s Island and Rampsholme Island. No matter how many times we visit the Lakes, the scenery never fails to have our jaws dropping - and it’s not like Scotland lacks iconic views.

One of the world's largest coloured pencils at Derwent Pencil Museum

After a wander around the bustling Saturday market – we bought a couple of resin glow-in-the-dark ghosts, Leonard and Lilith, and they are spooktacular! - it was time for a bite. The Old Keswickian fish and chip restaurant, opposite the ancient Moot Hall - today the tourist information centre - was just the ticket, with massive portions of fresh fish, chips and peas and scrummy desserts.

The evening saw us visit the magnificent Theatre by the Lake, where, as well as a comic take on The Hound of the Baskervilles, we took in a brilliant exhibition of costumes and props from the venue’s first 25 years. Running until August 2025, it’s well worth a visit.

Sunday saw our plans to visit Castlerigg Stone Circle, one of Britain’s most impressive prehistoric monuments, foiled. We set off intending to drop by on the way home, only to find the road there closed. Still, they’ve been there for 4,000-5,000 years so they’ll be around when we return to Keswick, and we will go back… did I mention how great the Royal Oak’s bedrooms are?

The Royal Oak Inn, Main Street, Keswick CA12 5HZ, rooms from £130 per night, www.royaloakkeswick.co.uk