Hong Kong, where street food and Michelin dining make it a Shangri-La for foodie trippers - Scotland on Sunday Travel

The view at dusk from Colin Heggie’s room at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong. Pic: Colin Heggie/[email protected]

The first Hong Kong roof over my head, is some 56 floors from street level, at the family friendly Island Shangri-La. Although the glass lift allows you the opportunity to confirm the floor count, you’re better spending the lift journey looking at the wall which displays the world’s largest indoor silk mural. My Harbour View titled room certainly delivers. Surrounding skyscraper siblings flank the water’s edge, across which lies Kowloon and the distant mountains of Ma On Shan Country Park.

I drag myself away from the scene for tonight’s dinner. From the hotel’s nine restaurants I eat at Ming Pavillion, serving Hokkien cuisine with a seafood weighted menu rich in xianwei (umami) taste. Highlights included fried oyster pancakes and steamed mud crab. Returning to my view with a room, I reluctantly press the button to draw the blind and gradually extinguish the Victoria harbour lights below.

It was worth removing the view temporarily as in the early hours revealing it proved a dramatic start to the day. As the sun slowly rose, lighting an orderly queue of skyscrapers, the smallest in their shadows patiently waited their turn.

Egg tarts, a Hong Kong favourite, at Tai Cheong Bakery, Hong Kong. Pic: Colin Heggie/[email protected]

I also patiently waited my turn at the wonton soup station as I chose to breakfast at the hotel’s cafe TOO which offers casual dining with an international menu.

Today’s plans include a long walk so I sample an extra round of freshly steamed dumplings.

Hong Kong is constantly evolving and regenerating, most obvious in the buildings climbing ever closer to the clouds, but at ground level the theme of renewal is represented in the abundance of street art. Bodies of work sprayed, painted and glued across the city by a number of leading international artists. Guiding me around the mosaics and murals is Alex, who set up Wanderlust Walks, combining her love of the city and the art upon its walls. Works by Invader, CEET and Squid Licker are revealed along with the stories behind the artists.

After the tour I head to Tai Kwun, centre for heritage and arts. Opening in 2018, the area was revitalised, transforming the city’s former Central Police Station Compound into a public cultural

The Great Motherland of China, Chinese mural at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong. Pic: Colin Heggie/[email protected]

hub. Within the grounds lunch is at the award-winning Chinese Library. Reminiscent of a bygone era, set within a grand palate of deep greens and brass, the menu however offers a link between the ages via contemporary twists on classic Chinese cuisine. The chilled “jade flower” in green Sichuan pepper essence proved a beautiful and zingy start to the meal.

Exiting the Library and following a path between the declared monuments around the police station takes me to JC Contemporary, a purpose built 3-storey exhibition space dedicated to transforming the experience and understanding of contemporary art in Hong Kong. The recent ENCORE exhibition celebrated the 6th anniversary of Tai Kwun which has seen 17 million visitors since opening.

A few minutes walk from Tai Kwun is another revitalisation project, this time transforming the former Police Married Quarters into PMQ, a site nurturing and promoting creative industries. Among the many pop-up shops and studios I visit Obellery contemporary Jewellery studio where I attend a silver ring workshop resulting in a wonderful bespoke souvenir. Silversmithing is thirsty work so I visit nearby cocktail bar The Savory Project, created by an inventive award-winning team who incorporate savory and umami flavours into the menu. At the time of sipping these ranged from an aromatic Biryani to a bitter Miso Coffee Boulevardier.

For tonight’s culinary location I’m assisted by a Hong Kong banknote as pictured on it is the Standard Charter Building and within its basement resides restaurant Mott 32. An interior fusion of American art deco and Chinese culture, offering traditional Chinese dishes with western cooking techniques, the stand out dish being the signature 42 day Apple Wood Roasted Peking Duck.

Street art by Squid Licker, one of many works on the streets in Hong Kong. Pic: Colin Heggie/[email protected]

Attracted by appearance of century egg as part of the Chinese set breakfast, I start the next day with a trip to the hotel’s top floor with Michelin starred restaurant Petrus. Another grand setting in the Shangri-La’s stable, and offering yet more breath-taking views. For an even higher vantage point, a trip to Victoria Peak’s Sky Terrace 428 viewing platform by tram offers a stunning panoramic perspective of Hong Kong. Petrus is not the only Michelin star adorned restaurant within the hotel. A short lift ride away from your room is Summer Palace, serving authentic Cantonese food in a setting surrounded by Chinese heritage. If you prefer a more western style menu the Lobster, Bar & Grill is recommended for all your crustacean and cocktail (alcohol not prawn) cravings.

If the culinary choices outwith the confines of the hotel seem daunting then enlist the help of Virginia and her Humid with a Chance of Fishballs street food tour. Highlights of my tour included lunch at Lin Heung Teahouse which as been serving Hong Kongese dim sum for over 100 years. And a visit to Tai Cheong Bakery for a classic egg tart, a popular western inspired custard pastry.

For the last part of my trip I check in to the Kerry Hotel which sits on the Kowloon waterfront with plenty of dining options and views which rival my previous room. An ideal base for the short drive to West Kowloon Cultural District where I visit the Hong Kong Palace Museum. The stunning museum with its nine galleries regularly present special exhibitions featuring Chinese art and culture, as well as art and treasures from other parts of the world.

A few minutes walk from the museum takes me to M+, Asia’s first global museum of contemporary visual culture. I am particularly excited to see Noir & Blanc: A Story of Photography, featuring over 170 internationally celebrated photographers which runs until July.

A Fisherman's Cove family room at Shangri-La Island hotel, Hong Kong. Pic: What The Fox Studio/IB Photography

On my last night in Hong Kong I combine the view from the Kerry Hotel with a sundowner at its Red Sugar Bar, which tastes like it’s in safe hands under award-winning head mixologist, Niklas Forslin. As the last of the lasers from the distant daily light show leave the city temporarily I must also leave Hong Kong, hopefully temporarily.

Island Shangri-La: Entry room rate: £300+10%, Premier Harbour view room: £370+10% taxes. Playful themed family rooms: approx £450.60, plus 10% service charge.With access to: The Pantry; features childcare amenities, including washing machine and dryer provision.

The Hangout; for all-day grab & go refreshments, night caps in the evening. A selection of loose play, board games and children books.

Kerry Hotel: Entry room rate: £150+10% taxes,

Deluxe sea view room: £240+10% taxes.

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