Hillary fury over climber left to die

More than 40 climbers are thought to have seen David Sharp struggling with oxygen deprivation 1,000ft from the top of the 29,035ft peak, but almost all continued their trek without offering any assistance.

The circumstances in which the 34-year-old died prompted stinging rebukes from Sir Edmund, who said that human life was "far more important than just getting to the top of the mountain".

The 87-year-old, who lives in Auckland, New Zealand, continued: "It was wrong if there was a man suffering altitude problems and huddled under a rock, just to lift your hat, say 'good morning' and pass on by."

Mr Sharp, from Guisborough, North Yorkshire, died last week while on a solo descent of the mountain. Several parties reported seeing him in various states of health and working on his oxygen equipment.

One party included Mark Inglis, the New Zealander who became the first double amputee to reach the summit on prosthetic legs. He told Television New Zealand this week that his party had stopped and one of the Sherpas provided Mr Sharp with oxygen before the group continued to climb. He also said they had sent out a radio distress call.

Mr Inglis said that, at the time of his death, the British man was in Everest's "death zone" more than 26,000ft above sea level and there was virtually no hope that he could have been carried to safety from that altitude. "I walked past David, but only because there were far more experienced and effective people to help him," he said.

"It was a phenomenally extreme environment, it was an incredibly cold day. When we stood at the top at 7am, it was minus 38C."

But Sir Edmund, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay was the first mountaineer to reach Everest's summit in 1953, said the whole attitude towards climbing Mount Everest has become "rather horrifying. There have been a number of occasions when people have been neglected and left to die."

Sir Edmund also said he would have abandoned his own pioneering climb to save another life.

Helen Clark, the New Zealand prime minister, also stepped into the debate yesterday: "What Sir Ed said is something many people relate to, but he's probably also reflecting the fact that ethics around mountaineering may well change over time.

"It's a complex tragedy with a lot of issues you have to weigh up when life is in the balance."

Ang Karma, a Nepalese Sherpa guide who has climbed Mount Everest, said:

"Mountaineering is not what it used to be a few years ago, when people helped each other and behaved like they were a family. Now every man or woman on the mountain is for him or herself."

He said of Mr Sharp's death: "What happened on the mountain recently is not an uncommon occurrence. Everyone thinks and acts as if they are only responsible for themselves."

However, he conceded that a rescue would have been difficult: "At such an altitude, the climbers are weak, tired, having breathing difficulties and cold, so carrying someone else is almost impossible."

He also blamed the increasing commercialisation of the sport. "Many are part of commercially organised expeditions, where people only meet just before the climb. Since they are paying a lot of money, they don't want to give up their chance at reaching the summit."