Chapping at the door of world recognition

Shunned by most nations, Abkhazia is now a respected global power in the world of dominoes. Even before Russia recognised it in August 2008, Abkhazia was welcomed as a full member by the International Domino Federation. And next month, its capital, Sukhumi, will host the world championships.

The honour was conferred by the federation’s 25 member states in a unanimous vote in Las Vegas, even though only four other nations, including two Pacific islands, have followed Russia and recognised Abkhazia’s independence. For four days, starting on 17 October, Abkhazia will be the centre of the domino universe.

“For us this is hugely significant, not only as an athletic competition,” said Ruslan Tarba, an Abkhaz player. “People are going to come here and be able to see that we are not wild men climbing palm trees, carrying automatic weapons. Most importantly for us is for people to leave convinced that Abkhazia was, is and will be an open and friendly country.”

Starkly beautiful, Abkhazia, a former Soviet resort on the Black Sea, is far from tame. Almost 20 years have passed since its rebels expelled Georgian troops after the Soviet collapse, and buildings in the capital are still pocked with bullet and shrapnel damage. Several old hotels and restaurants remain in ruins as does the burned out shell of the former government headquarters. Now the rat-a-tat of AK-47s has been replaced with the clickety-clack of ivory-coloured dominoes on tables.

Largely cut off from the world, the Abkhaz first turned to domino – the preferred term – as a remedy for endemic listlessness. Some see it as part of Abkhazia’s liberation struggle.

“Following the war that Abkhazia went through, every step forward we make, whether it is in domino or other areas, is an important one,” said Artur Gabunia, president of the Abkhaz Domino Federation.

Since entering internationals in 2007, the Abkhaz domino team has moved up the ranks, taking tenth place in the 2009 and 2010 team championships in Panama and the Dominican Republic. It hopes to make the top three in Sukhumi.

“They are very competitive,” said Manuel Oquendo, president of the US National Domino Federation. “The sport is concentrated in Latin America, so I was surprised to see people playing domino by the Black Sea. I was impressed.”

Deservedly or not, dominoes has a reputation as a game for the old, or idle. Abkhazia has high unemployment, and every day grey-haired war veterans and fashionable young men in oversized sunglasses play on the waterfront across from the restored Ritsa Hotel, smoking and drinking sticky sweet coffee under the pines.

Competition is fierce, and dithering hated. “Faster, faster, faster,” Leonid Lolua, former mayor of Sukhumi, chided a recent opponent. “It’s a shame they don’t let me on the national team,” Lolua, 67, added.

Women are largely absent, though locals say they play at home. “In Abkhazia, almost everyone plays domino,” said Armen Mkrtchyan, a two-time Abkhaz domino champion.

Georgia, however, has lobbied to stop next month’s contest, highlighting the plight of refugees who can’t return.

Organisers expect 200 players from almost two dozen countries to compete for a $100,000 (£63,000) prize put up by the Russian-backed regime. And the federation hopes it will take domino closer to its ultimate goal – recognition as an Olympic sport.