Waves of support for life at top of country

The town, which is near Dounreay, the nuclear plant that is in the process of being decommissioned, enjoys a growing reputation for its wild waves and the sandy-haired tourists who arrive from around the world to surf them.

As a result, the town's character is surprisingly cosmopolitan for what one resident described as "the back of beyond", with a large number of English people acting as a brake on what some believe to be the runaway handcart of nationalism.

Dale Mann is one example of your "English Scot". Genealogy and family legend tell the story of how the Mann family left the area 400 years ago when sheep stealing became a capital crime and relocated to Northumberland. "I'm the first of the family to return in four centuries," said the retired engineer, who was drawn back in 1983 to work at the nearby United States tracking station during the last years of the Cold War.

At 80 years old and with a fine face full of whiskers, Mr Mann said he detested the SNP: he claims to have been told by a party worker who stopped him in the streets of Inverness to "f*** off - you're English". And he insisted: "Independence would be a disaster - it really would."

While the SNP will argue that Scotland is straining under the chains of the Union, Sarah Wilkinson, 35, believes the nation, or at least this town and its services, to be miles ahead of similar services in her native England. The mother of Poppy, three, and Edythe, one, arrived in Thurso from Blackpool, when her husband took a job at Dounreay. She said: "I've never been made to feel an outsider and I've been so impressed with the NHS - it's much better than down south. The Caithness General Hospital is small and intimate and you feel properly cared for. And my daughter started nursery at two and a half and I've friends in Sheffield who have had to wait until their son is three and a half and then pay."

Another delighted resident is Agnieszka Kozdon, 25, who arrived in Thurso a year ago from her native Poland, having been drawn by television footage. "Scotland seemed such a beautiful place and I wanted to try life here," said Ms Kozdon, who is now employed in social work. "I'm really happy with the way the country is run, and people have been so helpful and have made me feel at home."

Yet what was interesting was that, while English people and our Pole praised services, indigenous Scots appeared more disgruntled and anxious for change.

Jeanette MacDougall, 58, who is retired, is a staunch supporter of independence on the grounds that Scotland today is at a new nadir. "I would definitely go for independence - we could not get in a worse state. We are forgotten about up here and everything is neglected; just look at the roads and trains."

For all the nation's woes, she is passionate about her identity, saying: "I feel absolutely Scottish and very proud to be so". Then, with a conspiratorial smile, she added: "I think we are far nicer people than the English, but then there are places in Scotland where people aren't so friendly, like Inverness".

The lack of provision for the young was an issue cited by many, most passionately by Nadine Sharratt, 34, a laundry assistant and mother of two, Terran, 15, and Danielle, 12.

The boy racers who, residents complain, turn the town's streets into drag strips after dark, do so, according to Mrs Sharratt, because they are young enough to drive but not old enough to go to the pub. "I would take the drinking age down to 16, if I was in charge," she said. Yet aside from the bored youths, the town, she believes, is very safe. "You can let the bairns out to play and you don't have to worry."

THE saddest answer to our question of what it means to be Scottish in 2007 came from Moureen Leitch for whom that identity is inseparable from the disappointment and anger towards a nation she believes continues to neglect the most vulnerable.

Mrs Leitch,48, a care assistant with the NHS, approached our stand to urge the Scottish Executive to make better provision for those who suffer from depression. In 2004, her son Phillip, 22, hanged himself after suffering from the condition for five years and failing to receive proper support despite pleading with the authorities.

"Phillip was not one of those statistics who do not ask for help; he pleaded for help and it just wasn't available. There is just no money for mental health in this country. It always comes at the bottom of the list, and yet it's a very serious problem. We have a very high suicide rate, particularly among young men, and we need the Executive to get behind this and to help tackle drink and drugs which many young people use to self medicate."

Waves of grief still wash over Mrs Leitch, but today she is building a new life in Thurso. "I'll keep on fighting for better provision," she said. "I just get so angry with the government which has so much money for wars, and so little money and time for our children."

'Having our own parliament has closed the gap between politicians and the people'

"We must fix the job situation. There are no opportunities up here. I'd like things to be different by the time my three-year-old son, Ben, grows up."

Donna Mead, 23, part-time worker for British Telecom

"We're getting most things right. We should stay in the Union, but having our own parliament has made a difference - it's closed the gap between politicians and the people."

Steven Buttress, 46, self-employed businessman

"What does it mean to be Scottish in 2007? It means to have a healthy life in the country. There's a lot of community spirit here and Thurso is getting a good reputation for surfing."

James Page, 17, school pupil

"We absolutely should not separate from England. The Scottish Parliament has been a waste of money and has only made things worse. They could do far more for pensioners."

Stanley Stirton, 77, retired

"The Union was probably a good thing, but I don't agree with Westminster having the final say on everything. I come from Yorkshire but have lived here for 20 years and I know the politicians don't understand life up here. MPs think there's nothing north of Watford, and it's getting that way in Scotland. If you're not in the central belt, you're pretty much out of it."

Margaret Shepley, 80, retired

"There's not enough for young people to do up here. We need something for them to do at night, rather than vandalising everything."

Catherine MacAlpine, 62, retired

"The authorities need to do more for young people. They are closing all of the swing parks so there is nowhere for my daughter to play. The nurseries and schools are good here, but young people have nothing to do for fun."

Jenna Simpson, 21, mother of one

"Scotland is struggling. The present authorities haven't got to grips with the situation. We should have better control of our oil, and the community should have more of a say."

Mike Potts, 76, community councillor

"I'm not proud of the Scottish Parliament. They're a lot of old wifeys blethering. They only affect things in that they spend our money, but they're not engaged with local issues. Everything has deteriorated here over the past ten years and they won't do anything to fix it. We need less elected people, but more individual authority for those who are in power."

G Mitchell, 71, retired

• Stephen McGinty and Anna Smyth met the public in Thurso - the latest stop on our round-Scotland Nationhood 300 tour. Tomorrow, we report on the great debate in Ballater while the van moves on to Aberdeen where our reporters will be in Union Street outside the St Nicholas Centre from 12 to 3:30pm