Walk of the week: Falls of Kirkaig and Fionn Loch, Sutherland

There is a wonderful bookshop too – Achins – which is well worth a visit. Behind it you will find a lovely river, superb waterfall and a lonely loch below one of the most stunning peaks in Scotland.

You first pass through pleasant mixed woodland with the bubbling River Kirkaig to your right. Then you rise up through the trees to emerge in open country with a great view up a gorge that has been gouged out by the water.

Further on, after descending and going up again (don't worry, none of the sections are too steep – except near the falls), the mountains of Assynt come into sight. At first, it is the fantastic trio of Cul Mor, Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh – all standing alone amid the vast wilderness. As you continue, Suilven's great dome is seen before you reach the path to the falls.

Here, the path is steep as it drops down rough zig-zags to a spectacular view of the 60ft falls. Do take care, though, as a fall from here would be almost certainly be fatal.

After taking a photograph and taking time to marvel at this spectacle, return to the main path and head for Fionn Loch. It is only about a mile away, passing the highest (and calmest) part of the River Kirkaig.

On reaching a little pebbled cove beside the loch, Suilven's dominance is there to see. Rising from the far side of the water, its huge dome and gnarled ridge beyond command the eye.

This mountain is actually relatively low at a touch less than 2,400ft, but it looks as impressive as any other in Scotland, attracting walkers throughout the year. If there was a list of perfect places to stop for lunch, this would come high on it.

The route is rough underfoot, boggy and muddy in places, so wear boots. Also, remember that you are in relatively remote country, therefore warm clothes, waterproofs and some food should be taken.

Final warning (this is a fun walk, not an expedition): as well as the area near the falls, parts of the path have steep drops to the right, so take care – especially with children.

DISTANCE 6 miles.

HEIGHT CLIMBED 650ft.

TIME 3-4 hours.

MAP OS Landranger 15.

PARKING

Take the Achiltibuie road south from Lochinver for 3 miles to reach a car park on the right. It is just before the road goes sharp right and crosses the River Kirkaig at a sign for Ross and Cromarty.

IN SUMMARY

Cross the road and take a track to the right of the drive for Achins Bookshop, going through a wooden kissing gate. After a couple of hundred yards, take a path on the right, just before a large metal gate.

Pass through a couple of smaller gates and eventually go up through trees before descending again, through heather. The path climbs again and veers away from the gorge to reach a fork, where you go right, following a sign for the Falls of Kirkaig.

The path soon drops very steeply in a series of zig-zags to reach a fine view of the falls. Return to the fork and go right to reach Fionn Loch, or left to go back to the start.

The path to Fionn Loch is straightforward, through heather. On reaching a small cairn near some little falls, ignore a path going off to the left (this leads to Suilven). A little less than half a mile further on, you reach a pebble beach at a small cove by the side of Fionn Loch. Retrace your steps to the start.

REFRESHMENTS

Achins Bookshop, just up the hill from the start, has a nice little caf. Or you could head back up the road to Lochinver and the Lochinver Larder, which sells arguably the best pies in Scotland.

WHILE YOU ARE IN THE AREA

The bookshop is worth a browse, if only to buy a postcard. Otherwise, this area is all about the scenery; drive virtually anywhere and you will come to a good view of coast or mountains, or both – just be considerate of others when slowing down or stopping.