Scotch under threat from Japan's new generation

Drinks writer Michael Jackson believes that Scotch whisky producers cannot afford to "rest on their laurels".

He argues that the Japanese rise in whisky production echoes the challenge of New World wines to France’s traditional dominance. In 2001, a bottle of Japanese Yoichi single malt produced by Nikka beat Scottish and American rivals to win Whisky Magazine’s "best of the best" competition.

In his new book, published next week, Jackson describes how distillers in Japan are experimenting with different- sized stills, yeast and casks made from aromatic Japanese oak to enhance whisky flavour.

The distiller Suntory, which featured in the hit film Lost in Translation, is also using a bold Japanese calligraphic style on its labels in an increasing show of confidence and local identity.

Jackson believes that by 2020 Japan could command as much respect as Scotland in terms of its whisky production as it now no longer feels like, "a white jazz player".

He said:

"When a Japanese whisky won Whisky Magazine’s 2001 international tasting drawn from 100 whiskies over three years and tested by panels in Scotland, Kentucky and Japan, it caused people to sit up and take notice." He went on: "Japanese companies also now run a number of Scottish distilleries, such as Suntory which owns Bowmore and they use Scottish malts to enhance their whiskies. Japanese oak casks bring a joss-stick-like quality to it as well.

"People used to laugh at Japanese cars but they are now a by-word for reliability. And look how sushi has taken off."

Richard Gordon, managing director of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, said: "I agree with Michael Jackson but whether Japan can ever match Scotland for sheer variety is unlikely."

Jens Tholstrup, global rare whisky manager for William Grant & Sons, added: "Japan is now producing some excellent whisky which is healthy competition and not a threat."

Whisky, The Definitive World Guide, by Michael Jackson, is published by Dorling Kindersley on Thursday.