Travel: Asia Gardens, Benidorm

I’m lying face down when my arms are pulled back and held firmly. A foot is planted on the soles of mine and suddenly my back is bent back as my upper body is lifted completely off the huge low-lying mattress. If this was all-in wrestling I would be calling for a submission. In fact it is approaching the end of an extraordinary hour of a traditional Thai massage, the signature treatment at Asia Gardens.

Toes and fingers have been yanked till they crack, sinews have been stretched, limbs and torso pummelled, kneaded and twisted as the Thai woman in charge has mostly stopped short of inflicting actual pain. Yet strangely, my body gets used to any discomfort and probably in a wash of endorphins, stretches and moves in ways previously not possible. It is utterly wonderful.

Yet we are not in the Far East, but a couple of miles outside Benidorm for a short break to top up with rest and sunshine and to recharge the batteries. For the first time since our eldest was born almost 14 years ago, we have a couple of days to ourselves, the children staying in the UK with cousins. Any break away from the rigours of family life is a treat, but as we sit nursing an ice-cold beer by one of the infinity pools after our 40-minute transfer from Alicante airport, it feels very special indeed.

Even in April, the landscape on Spain’s Costa Brava has a baked, arid quality, with scrub and gorse on the hillsides. At the resort, however, all is lush greenery and trickling water features. As I haven’t been to Thailand, I can’t say how authentic the architecture, plantings or even the staff uniforms are, but they certainly lend the whole place an Asian vibe. Those manning the main reception – a vast foyer with dark wood carvings and sweeping stone steps down to the restaurants, bars and pools – add to this feeling with welcoming bows, hands clasped together.

In our room, which has a balcony terrace with table and chairs, a large bathroom with double sinks, slate floor and a rainforest shower, there’s a TV and iPod dock as well as the obligatory giant, multi-cushioned bed beloved by smart hotels. Shutters in the bathroom can be flung open so you can wallow in the bath and survey the rest of the room and the view beyond. A Thai tradition? Perhaps not, but it’s fun.

Speaking of the view, we can see the sea, but it’s just behind the brash sky scrapers of Benidorm a few miles away, which even in the height of Spain’s recession, are still being constructed. One imagines that if Asia Gardens could change its postal address, it would. The ITV sitcom Benidorm hasn’t helped the resort in its efforts to tell Britain that it’s a cut above the antics at fictional Solano, either.

We are not staying long enough to carry out any field work, content this time with a cocoon of comfort. The Thai theme comes a bit unstuck when it comes to food, as it is largely Euro grub, but it is very good. The evening buffet is superior, with staff on hand to prepare steak and such, as well as plenty of seafood and fish options and extensive salads. We try InBlack, one of the two fine dining restaurants and the service and ambiance, with candlelit views over one of the many ponds, makes it a romantic choice. At lunch we sit by one of the pools, sipping wine or beer, with a plate of seafood. Games of Scrabble are played, books  are read.

The pools and multitude of sunbathing spots – gauze-shrouded daybeds here, recliners there – all set  in the beautiful grounds are the biggest “wow” factors. Away from the heated and children’s pools, we swim  almost alone in the sun-warmed ones, clambering from one infinity pool to the next, on a water-level journey into relaxation.

THE FACTS Double deluxe rooms at Asia Gardens, including breakfast, cost from e242 rising to e384 during August per night based on two people sharing. The Thai massage costs e95, www.asiagardens.co.uk; scheduled and charter flights to Alicante from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Prestwick airports start from around £120 return.