'Tourists beware' when visiting Scotland

Tourists in Scotland should fear for their liberty because of new anti-terror laws, according to one of France’s best-selling tourist guides. The comment is just one of the deeply unflattering observations about travelling north of the Border in the new edition of the Routard guide to Scotland.

The guide also warns whisky connoisseurs that if they are brave enough to venture north they should buy their whisky in France before travelling, to avoid the high taxes on Scotland’s national drink. It is also scathing about the nation’s railways.

France is the fifth-biggest overseas market for Scottish tourism, worth 33m a year. While the new guide is full of enthusiasm for Scotland’s scenery and culture, and even has a tolerance for Scottish food which is uncommon on the Continent, government restrictions in the wake of September 11 and the war on Iraq are flagged up as a reason to think twice before travelling.

In a section entitled ‘The Rights of Man’, the invasion of Iraq is described as being dogged by scandal, and British troops are accused of abusing Iraqi prisoners and killing civilians.

The guide also describes abuses committed by British soldiers stationed in Kenya.

In a hair-raising passage, the guide, published last week, claims the UK government’s anti-terror laws are a blow against freedom in Britain itself. It says: "On British territory, there have been an increasing number of assaults on human rights since the adoption of security measures following September 11.

"The security laws have been criticised by the FIDH (International Federation for Human Rights) and by the United Nations committee for the elimination of race discrimination."

The passage goes on to detail how foreigners may face unlimited detention without trial and accuses the UK of failing to live up to its obligations under the European Convention on Human Rights. To emphasise the point, it includes contact numbers for Amnesty and FIDH.

Fears that people of Muslim or Arab origin or appearance will be targeted by the authorities are especially relevant in France - more than five million people with connections to France’s former North African and Middle Eastern colonies live in the country.

For those who are not worried about being locked up for visiting Scotland, the guide has other grim news, especially for fans of whisky.

It said: "The choice of whiskies is impressive. But be aware that the beverage is taxed at 65%. It is much cheaper to get acquainted with the drink in Scotland, but then buy one’s preferred brand in France."

The cost of eating out north of the Border is also criticised. In a mini question-and-answer section at the beginning of the guide, prices in Scottish restaurants are described as "prohibitive" and the typical traveller is advised to opt for bar meals in pubs instead.

But the traditional disdain for Scottish and UK cooking is absent. Travellers are told that they can expect some "very agreeable surprises".

Travellers are also warned that getting an espresso, the most common kind of coffee in French cafs, is a difficult task in Scotland. The guide said: "There are plenty of coffee shops where one can have tea or coffee, but you will not find espresso there. If you want black coffee, you must be specific about it, otherwise you will receive a coffee with milk."

And visitors used to France’s excellent system of public transport and railways are warned to limit their expectations. It states: "The rail network is limited. Trains are practical to get between the main towns in Scotland, but that is pretty much it."

In contrast to some warts-and-all guides, the Routard is sparing in critical comments about actual areas of Scotland, preferring to damn the grimmer areas by ignoring them with Gallic diffidence. Exceptions include Dundee, which is described as "barely worth a day’s visit", and Campbeltown in Kintyre, which is described as "dingy and depressing".

And the guide will add to the never-ending Glasgow-Edinburgh debate, by advising visitors who want to experience "the real Scotland" that they should opt for Scotland’s biggest city. Critics of Glasgow are dismissed with a "quelle erreur!"

Opposition MSPs claimed the guide shows that the UK’s tough anti-terror laws are damaging the Scottish economy. Jamie McGrigor, the Scottish Tory tourism spokesman, said: "I very much hope this book won’t stop the French coming to Scotland and I can assure them that they will receive a warm welcome when they do come.

"But it does just show that Tony Blair’s posturing over terror is damaging not only himself but also Britain and Scotland’s reputations for fairness.

"We are supposed to be the Mother of the Free, and we need to cherish the right to fair trial. What he seems to forget is that laws made in haste are bad laws."

Michael Matheson, the Nationalists’ culture and tourism spokesman, said: "The new anti-terror laws introduced by Westminster clearly have a negative impact on Scotland.

"The Draconian legislation illustrates the need for Scotland’s Parliament to have responsibility for matters directly impacting Scotland and its people.

"The way Westminster is going, its decisions could have even more negative impact on Scotland.

"The Scottish Parliament should be able to make decisions on policy affecting the Scottish people."

VisitScotland put a brave face on the guide and insisted that the French enjoyed visiting Scotland.

A spokesman said: "We have no editorial influence over the content of this guide and the advice given in the publications. Overall, the majority of guidebooks tend to provide a balanced stream of information, so it stands to reason there will be negatives as well as positives listed."

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

A new American guide to Scotland’s two main cities wants Glasgow and Edinburgh to put aside their rivalry and improve transport links. Frommer’s guide says: "Their strength as a pair of lively cities, only separated by 50 miles, is considerably more important than which of them has the most to offer. Officials would do well to improve the public transport links between the two cities. especially in the wee small hours."

The guide also warns visitors to Glasgow to avoid talking football. If pressed, it says, pretend to support Partick Thistle.