Recipe: Three ways with sea trout

SEA trout is native to European waters, silvery grey with black or reddish spots and a delicate soft, pink flesh from its diet of shrimp and other pink-fleshed crustaceans. Its season is short, from May to July, but it is well worth hunting down the wild variety, which you might find at your local supermarket, but more likely at a good independent fishmonger.

If buying a whole fish, which can grow to about 4lb, look for clear eyes, pink gills, firm flesh and no fishy odour or flaking scales. It's best eaten on the day of purchase, but it can keep for a day or two in the fridge.

A good sea trout makes a fantastic centrepiece for a summer buffet. Prepare the fish by gutting it and removing the scales with the back of a knife, working from tail to head. Then remove fins and gills using kitchen scissors. You can use any trout or salmon recipe for sea trout, but it is best whole and just underdone.

POACHED SEA TROUT

1 sea trout (1.5-2kg, prepared); 1/2 bottle good white wine; water; court bouillon; 2 tbsp salt; 8 white peppercorns; 8 coriander seeds; 1 stalk lemongrass, bruised; 1 bay leaf

Stove-top method

Oil the rack of a fish kettle and put the fish on it. Put into the pot and add the wine and enough cold water to just cover. Lift out the fish on the rack and drain back into the pot, being careful not to let the fish slip, then lay aside. Add the other ingredients and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for ten minutes to let the aromatics infuse. Add the sea trout, and bring back to a simmer for five minutes, then take off the heat and stand for 15 minutes before removing to a serving plate.

Oven method

Take a roasting tin that is large and deep enough to fit the fish and line with two layers of foil. In a pan, add the court bouillon ingredients and enough water to just cover the fish, then bring to a boil and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Lightly oil the lined tin and put in the fish. Pour the bouillon around rather than over the fish and seal tightly with two more layers of foil. Bake at 160C/300F/ gas mark 2 for eight minutes per 500g, then remove to a large serving plate to cool.

To dress the fish

Remove the skin and gently remove any dark meat with the back of a knife. Place on a bed of fresh watercress and garnish with thinly sliced cucumber.

Sauce vert to serve

Blanch 50g each of spinach and rocket leaves and refresh in cold water. Squeeze dry and mix in a blender with 50g of roughly chopped fresh herbs and 300ml of quality mayonnaise.

•This article was first published in Scotland on Sunday on 16 May 2010