At cross-purposes over tartan register

THERE'S more to tell than the new tartan register making "fashion designs official" (News, 31 January).

The new register has rightfully put all tartan records into the public domain. Tartan is back where it belongs – in the hands of the Scottish people. Tartan is part of our culture and has evolved to become an icon, bringing huge returns to the country's economy.

The Scottish Register of Tartans was always intended to complement and benefit the indigenous textile industry – and, indeed, most believe that it has – but essentially the control of the register had to be in the public domain.

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When the bill was passing through parliament, following a lot of debate, the parliamentary committee agreed unanimously not to make a woven sample a condition of registration.

What most of us want is to eliminate what is known as "tartan tat", which only cheapens Scotland's image and often is not made here in any case.

A new "exclusive" register in conflict with the principle of past tartan records would have been counter to the tradition of tartan. Though the register can only operate according to the terms and conditions of the bill enacted by parliament, it is carrying out its job well.

Now nearing its first year of operation, the Scottish Register of Tartans deserves our support. Lessons are being learned every day and modifications can and are being made. Perhaps further work could be done on the importance of tartan categories to safeguard our clan tartans and separate these from foreign designs or indeed fanciful creations.

Mention the word "tartan" and opinions are always forthcoming. I just wish we could remove the mindset of "preserving my patch" and think of tartan as "a gift that Scotland has given to the world".

Deirdre A Kinloch Anderson, Kinloch Anderson Limited, Edinburgh

IF IT wasn't for foreigners (pipers and dancers), the tartan industry in Scotland would have died long ago. New tartans are being developed every single day, many of them true pieces of art that enrich Scotland's heritage.

Witnessing a true tartan artist at work is a life enriching experience. The problem is the pompous ignoramuses who know nothing about tartan, weaving or kiltmaking. How many of them know that most kilts made in Scotland (thank goodness for the few exceptions) do not meet the legal definition of what a kilt is?

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How many of them know that more than 90 per cent of pipers wear dancers' kilts? I would never buy a counterfeit kilt in Scotland, made with inferior materials, and smaller in yardage that they should be. Tartans, however, need not be historical, nor exclusive to a clan. There are numerous publications by respected scholars that should help the ill-informed get educated.

Tartan designer, California

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