Stephen Jardine: Scottish produce is well placed to cash in on provenance-aware consumer demand

Yet sometimes the breakthroughs come from the unlikeliest places. For a long time, the great food trend was towards convenience. We didn’t care where the food came from or even how it tasted, the main concern was how easily it could be cooked and eaten. Remember Findus Crispy Pancakes, with their bright orange crust and filling hotter than the surface of the sun? Or Vesta curries, containing chunks of chicken that made tofu seem tasty. Forget flavour, it was all about speed. Then things got even quicker. Microwave meals took convenience to a new level. By the time you had put out a plate, knife and fork, your meal was ready.

So what was next? Just when it seemed like space food would be the next logical step, everything slowed down. Fast Food gave way to Slow Food. Just in time, we rolled back from the brink and rediscovered the joy of making a meal and that meal actually tasting good.

The supermarkets have been quick to ride the trend, stocking more fresh produce and those self-assembly meals where they provide the protein, sauce and accompanying vegetables but leave you the small satisfaction of putting it together. I call it Lego food.

So what lies ahead? The Scottish Wildlife Trust just might have the answer. Ten years ago, it established its flying flock. Originally 50 Shetland sheep, they were used by the Trust to improve conditions at their wildlife reserves across Scotland through controlled grazing. A decade on, the flying flock now consists of a few hardy originals and around 180 new arrivals. It is the only flock of its kind in the country, helping improve and enhance our natural surroundings but there is more to it than that. Wool from the flying flock is sold in Scottish Wildlife Trust visitor centres and proceeds go to help the work of the charity. But, as you’d expect with this column, it’s the conservation-quality lamb that counts. Butchered by Puddledub in Fife, it has received a big endorsement from Michelin starred chefs.

Dominic Jack at Castle Terrace tested the lamb and declared it to be “fabulous produce”. For Tom Kitchin in Leith, it is the embodiment of his cooking philosophy – from nature to plate.

“The Scottish Wildlife Trust is leading by example with its free-range lamb, which comes from the only flock of its kind in Scotland. People are becoming increasingly aware of where their food comes from, so it is really important to know your source and make sure the produce you cook with is sustainable. This project really demonstrates the importance of conserving reserves to make sure the same quality produce is available for food lovers to enjoy, from farm to fork for years to come,” said Kitchin.

This project leads the way, but I think in years to come credentials will take over from convenience. We’re already seeing the rise of heritage potatoes with ancient varieties like Pink Fir Apple and Arran Pilot back in the shops. This autumn, even the supermarkets were stocking more types of British apples than ever before, with Sainsbury’s selling 50 varieties, including the Meridian and Adams Pearmain. That’s a big change from where we were just a few years ago. Perhaps in a time of great uncertainty, it is comforting to buy and eat types of food that we know have survived wars, recessions and changes in consumer fashion. Whatever the reasons, Scotland is well placed to cash in on demand for produce that comes with a story. Food with tradition, produced in a pristine environment sounds great. It might just be the next big thing.