It’s time to develop a taste for venison - Dick Playfair

We are continually being told that deer numbers across the UK are increasing, which they probably are, the exception being the uplands of Scotland where, across the open range, Deer Management Groups have halted rising numbers. In fact, open hill red deer populations have been contained by management culls and have now been declining for some years, as confirmed by SNH (now NatureScot) in their 2019 report, with the downward trend continuing.

But elsewhere – forestry, woodland, urban fringes – deer numbers, particularly roe deer, are growing and, with the climate emergency and targets to increase forestry cover, we are creating more habitat for deer in areas where they are difficult to manage.

So, if we have deer, why do we hear that venison is in short supply? Looking back, possibly a quarter of a century, nearly all the venison we produced in Scotland was exported. What we kept was regarded as niche, seasonal, for special occasions and expensive. That’s now changed. The UK venison market is growing particularly in London, south east England and Scotland. Venison is available all year round and, in addition to the traditional cuts, a whole variety of other options – mince, sausages, burgers, grill steaks for example – are available.

The UK retail market for venison was worth in the region of £16 million in 2021/22 and in addition there is the significant food service, restaurant and events market, currently recovering post Covid. Venison is also available through independent butchers, farmers markets, estate shops, and by direct mail, and a proportion is exported.

The UK retail market for venison was worth in the region of £16 million in 2021/22

More consumers now understand the benefits of venison – it is the healthiest of all our red meats, low in fat, high in iron, and vitamins B6, B12, potassium and zinc.

Nutritionist Dr Laura Wyness says about its qualities: “Venison is a lean, high protein and nutrient-dense food that can be a very flavoursome addition to a healthy, varied diet.”

And, by eating venison we are also encouraging protection of our increasing woodland resource with its valuable role in the climate emergency.

Issues with availability are predominantly down to ensuring that what reaches the consumer is safe and healthy to eat, and to achieve that there must be pinch points and checks in the supply chain. The single stalker supplying small quantities to his local butcher must work to exceptionally high standards, have the relevant training in deer management and food hygiene, and follow Best Practice to minimise any risks.

Dick Playfair is a member of the ADMG Executive Committee, Secretary of the Scottish Venison Association and a Director of the Venison Advisory Service.

At scale only a limited number of processors across the UK are approved to take in, process and supply venison. There are a variety of other routes to market that we are being developed – for example a Scottish Government funded pilot project to set up smaller regional chills/processors and collection points, and rolling out training so that stalkers are better equipped to supply the public direct, and that butchers have a better understanding of venison and are confident to sell it alongside other mainstream red meats like beef, lamb and pork.

There is red tape but not in a bad way. Involvement of local authorities and Food Standards Scotland are vital in ensuring that regulations are adhered to and that supply of this fabulous wild product is both legal and safe.

Venison is a crucial part of the whole deer management process – right through to the fight against climate change – so in asking for it and eating it you will be doing your bit to save the planet too.

Dick Playfair is a member of the ADMG Executive Committee, Secretary of the Scottish Venison Association and a Director of the Venison Advisory Service.