Fordyce Maxwell: We enjoyed almost every new vista in spite of some raw, cold days

LIZ took a photograph at Balmerino Abbey. “Ah,” she said, admiring the wonders of an instant digital check, “that’s a nice one of the old chestnut – and quite a good one of the tree you’re standing beside.”

Those familiar with that fine Fife village will know that the tree is a Spanish chestnut more than 400 years old and wearing almost as well as I am. They will also know that it is about three miles from Newport on Tay, where, with and without children, in health and sickness, we visited Liz’s parents hundreds of times over more than 30 years.

But in spite of seeing a lot of Fife and knowing the main roads well, it was the first time I’d been in Balmerino. An analogy, in a way, for a reporting career where I spent much time racing to jobs round Scotland and racing back to office duties, with not enough time spent at the interesting places in between.

Every year now we try to fill that gap, and last week put together a modest tour. We started at Newburgh in Fife, up the east coast to Stonehaven, then to Findhorn via Auchenblae – we have kind and extremely hospitable friends in nice places, as a weight gain of approximately half a pound a day can testify – then Ullapool and a sweep of Wester Ross including Inverewe Garden, down the A9, and home.

With the exception of the House of Bruar, we enjoyed almost every new vista in spite of some raw, cold days. TS Eliot didn’t call April “the cruellest month” without reason. But it is possible to have fun with layers of clothes on.

In Ullapool, heading briskly for the sanctuary of the Ceilidh Place, haddock chowder and its excellent bookshop, I was reminded of the weather last time I was there years ago. The Australian – some things don’t change – girl receptionist at my hotel looked out at the rain I was about to wade into and remarked: “Boy, what a pisser.”

Some statements you can’t argue with. That time the rain continued – “How long do showers usually last here?” “About three weeks” – but this time, soon after the chowder, the sky cleared to blue and sunshine and we had a superb drive round the coast of Wester Ross and a peaceful hour or so at Inverewe.

But House of Bruar? Thousands milling for food and toilets, everything expensive – an experience that can be had at a thousand shopping malls. Before our brief stop there, we drove from Forres to Carrbridge as the temperature fell to one degree in a snowstorm; five minutes at House of Bruar and I’d have happily been back on that moor.

Otherwise, enjoy an at-home visit to Scotland. We did.

• Last week Fordyce... spent days without 24-hour TV news, radio bulletins and internet checks for football and cricket scores. Instead he relied, happily, on morning newspapers – just like the good old days.