Prawn cocktails: My love for the delicacy explained and why Scottish seafood would take the humble prawn cocktail to the ultimate level

So it’s officially summer and the wonderfully sunny weather turns the mind to cocktails – who doesn’t love them?

It may have been 20 years ago, but I’ll never forget the flamboyant creation I was served up in a seriously hip bar-restaurant run by a Scotsman in New York’s famous theatre district.

In perfect harmony with the Broadway location, it was dramatic in its presentation, served up in a ridiculously tall and elegant glass goblet with a gigantic and utterly majestic whole king prawn perched on the rim.

I suppose I should explain. This luscious concoction wasn’t for drinking. It was a super-decadent take on a much-loved classic – the almighty prawn cocktail.

But despite its splendour and the heritage of its creator, the West 44th Street offering was missing one vital ingredient which would have ramped it up to an Oscar winner. Scottish seafood.

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In my totally biased opinion, we have the best in the world. The shellfish, oh, the shellfish.

Our scallops, lobsters, langoustines and crabs are legendary. Not to mention mussels and clams.

The prawn cocktail is a classic for a reason, but the Oscar should go to a simple version made with freshly caught Scottish spinys, served up on the shores where the shellfish was landed

And there is a less well-known beastie that is a particular favourite of mine – the squat lobster, or spiny, as it’s also know.

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The crustaceans are similar in texture and flavour to the better-known langoustine, or prawn, but smaller and sweeter. I admit that shelling them takes a bit of effort and can be a somewhat bloody task due to their thorny carapaces, but it’s so worth it.

So for me, the perfect prawn cocktail would be very simple, served up on a shoreside in Scotland and made from the freshest locally caught spinys. There’s not much that can beat a handful of tails, slathered in your own secret-recipe marie rose sauce and nestled on a bed of crispy salad – avocado, cucumber and cherry tomatoes or other flourishes optional.

Here's one I had earlier, made with local langoustines and enjoyed while looking 'over the sea to Skye' at the Fisherman's Kitchen in Kyle of Lochalsh. Picture: Ilona Amos

But it also works well as an ultra-portable meal, perfect for picnics or sustenance on a walk or lunchbreak at work – just decant into a tub or stuff it inside a roll or crusty bread. So delicious, and so very versatile.

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My older brother shares my love of the prawn cocktail and we have often joked that we would give up everything to travel the world, sampling versions and rating them in our own very niche guide book. Or perhaps set up a restaurant serving only prawns, in every shape, size and cooking style. We would certainly dine there – often.

If we do ever produce the book, which I’m sure would be a bestseller, you’ll find it on the top shelf. In the prawnography section.