Dr Who sets tweed for re-generation

HE HAS fought off alien invaders and evil despots and saved the world on countless occasions. Now Dr Who may be helping to rescue one of Scotland's oldest industries and opening it up to a new, younger generation.

• An outfit marketed by Top Man with tweed jacket and bow-tie closely mimics the clothes worn by new Doctor Who, Matt Smith, above, pictured with his assistant, Amy Pond, played by Karen Gillan Picture: PA

Harris Tweed, for decades regarded as the uniform of choice for an affluent hunting, shooting and fishing set, is set to hit the High Street next month after a unique collaboration between its island manufacturers and the Top Man chain.

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The company believes that the sight of Dr Who, played by Matt Smith, wearing a tweed jacket has been a major influence in persuading youthful consumers to consider buying garments made of the fabric. Part of the range is a tweed bow-tie made in homage to the unusual neckwear of the celestial star of one of the most popular programmes in television history.

It is hoped the new collection, a first for the industry and which will go on sale on 8 November, will mark a turning point in the fortunes known as Cloh Mhor (Big Cloth) in gaelic.

• Harris Tweed: The celebrity brand

Smith, the Dr Who who followed Scots actor David Tennant, chose to wear a Harris Tweed jacket as part of his character's signature, eccentric look when he took over the role last year. Within days of the first pictures of Smith being made public, the Harris Tweed Authority, the body that governs the industry, was being bombarded with calls from fans desperate to find one for themselves.

Lorna Macaulay, chief executive of the Harris Tweed Authority, said the Dr Who connection had been an "eye-opener" for the younger generation. She hopes the Top Man range will further broaden the appeal of the fabric and help win a new army of trendy, young followers. "It is brilliant to see well-made, well-styled young pieces entering the mainstream," she said. "I think for the first time this jumps the generation gap and makes Harris Tweed more accessible. But I don't think Top Shop has compromised on the quality or style of the cloth."

The cloth for the new range is being produced by the Shawbost mill on the Isle of Lewis, which is operated by Harris Tweed Hebrides. The company, which last year won the Outstanding Contribution category at the Scottish Style Awards, and Textile Brand of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards, has previously worked in partnership with Deryck Walker, twice voted Scottish Fashion Designer of the Year.

Mark Hogarth, creative director of Harris Tweed Hebrides, said they approached Top Man as part of plans to mark the 100th anniversary of the cloth. He believes the slim, stylish fit of the collection will appeal to a new audience.

"The Top Man collection is both contemporary and classy," Hogarth said."The choice of tweed and the cut on the designs are exquisite. We are confident that this collaboration shall bring Harris Tweed to a whole new generation."

The creation of the new line will also be a major boost for the industry, which employs about 100 weavers throughout the Outer Hebrides. Just a few years ago, the cloth, which must be woven by islanders in their own homes from pure virgin wool, spun, dyed and finished on the Western Isles, appeared to be on the verge of extinction. Orders were already in decline before Brian Haggas, the previous owner of the Shawbost mill, controversially decided, in 2006, to concentrate on men's jackets, and reduced the number of patterns produced, leading to the closure of the business and the loss of nearly 40 jobs. Since Harris Tweed Hebrides reopened the mill in late 2007, it has not only reinstated most of the workers but it has also increased production. Its fabrics are now exported to more than 50 countries around the globe, with orders soaring by 50 per cent this year.

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Mary McGowne, organiser of the Scottish Style Awards, said it was "tremendous" that Top Man was planning to stock Harris Tweed, and paid tribute to work carried out by Harris Tweed Hebrides, and the Harris Tweed Authority, to promote the fabric over the last three years.

"The work that has been done to promote its unique qualities, combined with key product placement, including Matt Smith and his geek-chic look, has bestowed real kudos on the fabric," she said. "Harris tweed is one of Scotland's last great surviving craft industries, produced by weavers in their own rural homes. It is completely authentic, and for fashionistas, there is nothing like the real thing."

The new collection includes a classic Crombie coat in green tweed, priced at 200, three single-breasted blazers in browns and greys, 150 each, and slim-fit boiled wool suits in blue and charcoal, at 220.

In the past, genuine tweed jackets have been priced much higher because they have not been available to the clothing mid-market or aimed at young, more price-conscious customers. Top Savile Row tailors will charge more than 2,000 for tweed jackets, while Harrods last year put a range on sale for 1,500. Previous role models for the fabric have included Sir Winston Churchill, Cary Grant, and the kings of both Spain and Italy.

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