Double helping of success for nation's top chef Geoffrey Smeddle

Geoffrey Smeddle, owner and head chef at The Peat Inn, in Fife, has been honoured as Scotland's chef of the year while his eaterie was named the nation's best at the annual Scottish Restaurant Awards.

Mr Smeddle, the only chef to win two awards last night, took over the long-established restaurant, near Cupar, less than four years ago and was awarded a coveted Michelin star for the first time just a few weeks ago.

He is a former protege of Terence Conran, having been head chef at his former flagship Glasgow restaurant, Etain.

He relocated to Fife in June 2006, taking over from long-running proprietor David Wilson, who converted the former coaching inn more than 30 years ago.

Mr Smeddle, whose establishment also boasts five suites offering overnight accommodation, has since been awarded five-star status by both the AA and VisitScotland, as well as being named Best Scottish Restaurant with Rooms by Hotel Review.

He was also shortlisted as one of four contenders in the food category at December's Spirit of Scotland Awards, which were backed by The Scotsman.

Mr Smeddle won the top two prizes at the third annual restaurant awards, which were held at the Corn Exchange in Edinburgh, but it was the city that underlined its credentials as the nation's culinary capital with a string of wins.

Michelin-rated chef Martin Wishart won the best fine dining award, his Leith neighbour The King's Wark was honoured for having the best pub grub, while Calistoga Central, a Californian restaurant in the New Town, was named best speciality restaurant.

However, Edinburgh's latest Michelin star winner, Paul Kitching, owner of 21212 in the New Town, lost out to Rocpool Reserve, Albert Roux's new restaurant in Inverness, as the best newcomer on the scene.

Mother India, in Edinburgh's south side, was named Scotland's best Indian restaurant, beating the nearby Central Mosque, while Osteria Piero, in Glasgow, won best Italian. The best seafood honour went to newcomer Ondine, in Edinburgh, while Cail Bruich in Bridge of Weir was named Scotland's best rural restaurant.

The awards, which are organised by online booking website www.5pm.co.uk, are decided after shortlisted contenders are visited by members of an expert panel. Members of the public and suppliers are given the chance to nominate their favourites online.

Among the final judging panel were David Maguire, chief executive of the Glasgow Restaurateurs Association; Steven Doherty of The Cook School Scotland; and Neil Thomson, founder member of the Federation of Chefs.

Charles Shaw, chairman of www.5pm.co.uk, said: "The culinary standard in Scotland gets better and better every year.

"As the country's favourite online reservation and review site, we're delighted to support the recognition of these fantastic chefs and restaurateurs."

A spokeswoman for VisitScotland said: "Working together, our restaurateurs have the potential to sell Scotland to the world by helping contribute to a high-quality visitor experience."

REVIEW

Rich taste of rare quality and cutting edge cooking

The Peat Inn By Cupar, Fife

AFTER an excellent amuse-bouche of pea-and-lovage soup, Graham chose the marinated mackerel salad, which came with tomato confit, black olives and wild herbs. I opted for the ballotine of rabbit with sweetbreads, pork and toasted brioche. I got the better of the deal, and then some.

His starter may have been disappointing, but Graham's main course – an unfeasibly dark, slow-braised daube of beef garnished with onion pure – was a dish of rare quality that more than made up for the mackerel's inadequacies.

It was a high-risk option. Where it would have been easy to produce a dish so rich it was inedible, chef Geoffrey Smeddle had created a tour de force.

My duck was also magnificently tender and succulent, but that didn't stop me spending the entire time I was eating it wishing I had stuck to my original decision to have the beef.

Graham's meal finished in stylish fashion with a rich pav of chocolate accompanied by a lapsang souchong ice-cream that made a light and refreshing contrast to the beef.

My rhubarb pastry, alas, was dire: it looked like a Greggs escapee.

This is an extract from a review by Richard Bath first published in Scotland on Sunday in May 2007.

MAIN WINNERS

Restaurant of the Year: The Peat Inn, Fife

Chef of the Year: Geoffrey Smeddle (The Peat Inn)

Best Fine Dining Restaurant: Restaurant Martin Wishart, Leith

Best Speciality Restaurant: Calistoga Central, Edinburgh

Best Pub Grub: The King's Wark, Leith

Best Newcomer: Rocpool Reserve, Inverness

Best Customer Service: Hotel du Vin and Bistro, Glasgow

Best Hotel Restaurant: Ardeonaig Hotel, Perthshire

Best Rural Restaurant: Cail Bruich, Bridge of Weir

Best Family Friendly Restaurant: Di Maggio's (West End), Glasgow