Craig Sandle: No need to duck the issue of fantastic fowl

SYNONYMOUS with luxury and a hefty price tag, duck is often written off as an expensive product that should be preserved for special occasions.

However, a little of this flavoursome bird can go a long, long way as the intense meat and distinctive flavour allows us to follow the mantra less is more.

While it is available all year round, young duck comes into season in early summer, making it a great alternative to chicken. What duck lacks in size it more than makes up for in richness, meaning everyone will be satisfied. It is also much leaner than you would assume, making it a healthy dish too.

British-reared duck is well known for succulent flesh and excellent flavour, with names such as Gressingham and Aylesbury having worldwide reputations. I use Gressingham, which is leaner yet has a fuller flavour.

It pays to spend a little more on your duck, and choose carefully at the supermarket. Or, opt for one of the Capital's butchers who are more than happy to tell you the origin of the bird and give tips on how best to cook it.

It is simple to cook too, cooked in the same way as chicken breast,. It is heavily associated with both French and Chinese cuisine as the flavour marries well with myriad ingredients, from fresh fruits to sticky glazes.

• Recipes: Gressingham duck breast and herb gnocchi with asparagus and peas | Crispy Confit duck leg with beetroot and potato salad and spiced pineapple

Whole duck can be roasted in a similar way to chicken. A popular way to serve roast duck is with thin pancakes, sliced cucumber and plum sauce.

Confit of duck is a staple dish in France. Taking the legs and cooking slowly to release all the flavour within the fat and flesh of the meat results in a succulent, tasty dish. Served hot, the meat literally falling off the bone with garlicky potatoes is so evocative of French bistro cooking.

Due to the heavy flavour of duck, fresh sweet fruit compliments it perfectly. Duck l'orange is well known for good reason. Experiment with some of your favourite fruits – cherries, raspberries and cranberries all go well with duck. A hot sauce made from reduced down cherries would be the perfect Scottish summer time dish.

Craig Sandle is head chef of Number One at The Balmoral, www.thebalmoralhotel.com, 0131-556 2415.