Why this Italian restaurant is a worthy successor to Edinburgh's iconic Ping On

It’s hard to imagine Edinburgh’s Stockbridge without the institution that is Ping On, which occupied the same spot at 28-30 Deanhaugh Street for 56 years.

However, the much-loved Chinese restaurant has now closed. 

The silver lining is their new occupant - a double-level Italian enoteca and trattoria, Sotto, which will open on October 4. It’ll be spread across two floors, and will boast a wine cellar beneath the street. 

All the signs are auspicious - it’s owned by Edinburgh-born sommelier James Clark, who has had spells at Divino Enoteca and The Palmerston, as well as his brother in law’s winery, Poppelvej, in Adelaide, South Australia. He’ll be working alongside head chef Francesco Ascrizzi, who has experience at the Capital’s Divino Enoteca, Mono and Tipo. 

Clark tells us more. 

Tina Leahy | Tina Leahy

How does it feel taking over that spot?

It was a very iconic restaurant, and they’re big shoes to fill. Over the summer, I met with the Mak family, who made it the legendary spot that it was, and there’s some nods to the past hanging on the walls, which you’ll see walking around the new restaurant. Kenny (Mak)’s two granddaughters are going to be working with us in the front of house team too, which is lovely. Everyone of my parents' generation has a story from Ping On, and hopefully there will be similar tales from Sotto over the years to come.

Was there any major work to be done to the interior - any particular challenges?

It’s been a huge project to refurbish the site, yes, and I’m delighted with how it has turned out. I couldn’t be more grateful to all the local tradespeople we’ve used, particularly our architects Scarinish for their vision of the space, and Splintr for fitting everything out so beautifully. We started the designs when I was still living out in Australia, which certainly had its logistical challenges; the time difference usually meant I’d had a glass of wine or two before the Zoom calls.

Do you think Stockbridge needed a wine bar?

There are already some lovely wine bars in the neighbourhood, and people see Stockbridge as a great part of the city to come to for a day or evening out. I think it will bring something unique though, with a huge range of Italian wines that showcases the best of the country's viticulture.

What other food businesses do you rate in the area?

There are lots of places I often go, having lived in the area for the last 10 years. I love that you have The Baillie for a good pint and a burger, or somewhere like Eòrna for an amazing fine dining experience. We hope Sotto will be part of that diverse scene.

Who do you hope to appeal to?

I like to think we will offer something to everyone. Upstairs will be the enoteca, a wine bar and bottle shop serving light snacks and aperitivi, coffee during the day and brunch at weekends. Downstairs, the restaurant will offer a 2/3 course fixed price lunch and dinner in the evenings, with private dining for 8-10 people. We particularly want to appeal to Italian wine lovers, though, and will host regular Thursday evening tastings and other wine events and dinners.

Tell us about the more unusual offerings, like the ‘fai tu’ (four courses of feasting-style dishes chosen by the chef) menu and your own pickles.

The ‘fai tu’ concept was really influenced by my time living in Adelaide, where lots of restaurants

encourage it. It’s really convivial as you share everything, and get to taste more of the menu. There’s an amazing hospitality scene in that part of the world. Places like Osteria Oggi, Nido, and Good Gilbert were inspiring to go and eat and drink at. Beautiful spaces, delicious food, super interesting wine lists, excellent but totally relaxed service, and well priced. The Aussies do that so well and we really want to capture that atmosphere.

Growing up, we used to go down to the borders on Sundays to a place called Loch Eddy, where I still often go and fish. It's such an idyllic and peaceful spot. My dad would fish all day and mum would forage around the loch, collecting rowans in late summer and making the most amazing jelly to go with roast meats or cheese. Inevitably, the extra jars would be forgotten but they would just get better with time, like fine wine. We’re still working through the 2016 vintage at the moment. This was the inspiration behind ‘Sott’Olio’ (‘under oil’, the Italian term for preserving), some pickles, preserves and chutneys we make in house from local ingredients with Italian recipes.

What three dishes should every customer order?

Gnocco Fritto. Crispy pillows of dough, a cured ham called culatello from Emilia-Romagna that is similar to Parma ham, and stracciatella (the creamy bit in the middle of a Bburrata). That with a glass of Franciacorta is close to food and wine pairing perfection for me.

Rigatoni alla Norma. Probably my death row meal, and a Sicilian classic. When Francesco (our head chef) and I worked together previously, I’d ask for it as my staff meal at almost every service.

Brioche e Gelato. We’re going to serve these at brunch at weekends, and as a dessert on the menu.Another Sicilian speciality actually, a homemade brioche bun sliced open and filled with ice cream, ideally pistachio in my view.

Do you want guests to experience something other than lasagne and pizza?

We want them to experience something different each time they visit. Britain has a love affair with Italian food but there’s so much diversity to the culinary traditions of the different regions. We’ll change the menu to reflect that and with the seasons. We’re not a pizzeria, but not much beats a lasagne with a glass of Chianti; the classics have their place from time to time.

Are you nervous for the opening, or excited?

Both! We opened the bookings last week and have had an amazing reception so far which is really encouraging, but I’ve poured my heart into this for over a year so I am obviously both anxious and excited to see it come to fruition. Viva Sotto!

www.sottoedinburgh.com