Weekend pass

Isle of Tiree

Argyll

01879 220 308

www.tireescarinishhotel.com

Tiree is such a wonderful place, it almost pains me to tell you about it, for fear that, on the deserted white sandy beaches, there might be more than the occasional cow or sandpiper on my idyllic picnic. There is nowhere quite like Tiree - to stroll over the machair, covered with clover, wild thyme, harebells and frog orchids, is to slough off every vestige of urban stress. And where better to stay than Scarinish Hotel, situated on the old stone harbour with its couple of fishing boats.

Getting there

You can fly from Glasgow to Tiree daily with Loganair, which operates as British Airways (0870 850 9850). Fares vary, so check for the best deals when you want to travel. The hotel is just a few miles from the airport. Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Oban.

Eating in

Scarinish Hotel uses local produce, not only because transport from the mainland can be slow but because it is simply so good. Local beef and lamb, from Nan the butcher over the road, is cooked simply but perfectly in the restaurant. Lobster and crab are brought to the kitchen from local fishermen and marvellous local salad leaves and herbs are supplied by Jane Macdonald, who has polytunnels along the road in Ruaig. Dinner might consist of the hotel's famous crab claws served with lemon mayonnaise, followed by Tiree lamb chops with mint mash and cranberry gravy. Pastry cook Mairi's sticky toffee pudding is a must.

Breakfasts are memorable: good porridge, excellent black pudding, eggs, bacon and a slice of hot cloutie dumpling on the side if you like. This is Scottish food at its best: perfect local produce cooked simply to emphasise the true flavours. Even picnics are catered for: take Maclean the butcher's excellent beef sausages to the beach to cook on a driftwood bonfire.

Room service

The rooms are comfortable with good facilities, including wonderful Arran Aromatics products in the bathroom. Some have sea views, while others overlook the village with its traditional thatched or whitewashed houses.

Plus

The food is so good at Scarinish Hotel that you need not go far, but because the island is only 29 square miles you can easily wander. The Glebe House, an old manse built in 1830, is an upmarket, welcoming guest house with spectacular views over to Skye, Rum and Mull. In winter you can have dinner (with the bonus of a BYOB facility) or in summer, if the Scarinish is fully booked, you could stay as a B&B guest in one of their luxurious bedrooms.

The Cobbled Cow tea-room in Tiree's Rural Centre offers lunch and tea with good home-baking, and is en route to the Blue Beyond Gallery in Balemartine, where you can admire or buy beautiful local paintings, pottery and textiles.

Minus

Like me, you might feel the urge to lie, because if you tell your friends the truth - that Tiree is one of the most beautiful, relaxing and silent places on earth - they might all want to join you on the next visit.

Location, location, location

Scarinish Hotel is well placed for everything, from golf to kite-surfing and sand-yachting; but a must-do is one of Iain Macdonald's marvellous Skipinnish Sea Tours, taking in dolphin- and whale-spotting to Coll, or a trip to Staffa and Fingal's Cave. The International Windsurfing Championships are held here in October. You can also drive to West Haynish and watch large colonies of grey seals lounging on the rocks.

What's the damage

For friendly service, excellent location and superb food, this is one of Scotland's most inexpensive small hotels: prices range from 30 to 50 per person B&B.