The Isle of Man - it’s familiar but this Irish Sea stepping stone is also very different – Scotland on Sunday Travel

With a distillery, folklore, legends and superstitions, this island embraces the spirit world

Port Erin, on the west coast of The Isle of Man, has steam trains (which inspired Thomas the Tank Engine), fishermen’s cottages and golden sands. Pic: Fiona Laing

“Say hello to the mooninjer veggey”, my driver suggests as we cross the Fairy Bridge on the way to Castletown. It’s always good to keep on the good side of the little people, she explains as we set off to explore the south of the Isle of Man.

The island is steeped in folklore, legends and superstitions embracing the fairies and the spirits, so it’s never long before you come across them. The stories underline the sense that although you are surrounded by the familiar – it’s similar to parts of England in many ways – there is something very different about this Irish Sea stepping stone. And it’s not just because it is a self-governing British Crown Dependency.

I have to admit that the feeling of separation is heightened by the fact I travelled from Scotland by train and ferry and there is nothing better than arriving on an island by sea.

The Bee Gees statue in Douglas, Isle of Man. Maurice, Robin and Barry Gibb were born on the island. Pic: Fiona Laing

From Heysham, the four-hour ferry docks in the heart of the capital where the promenade is wrapped by cream buildings. Douglas was made a city at the Queen’s Jubilee in 2022, but it feels more a port town or a seaside resort than a capital city.

The ships come and go (unless there’s a storm which Manx folk take in their stride as being “part of island life”), while you act like a tourist spotting statues of Norman Wisdom and the Bee Gees, taking a horse-drawn tram, learning about the TT motorbike races in the Manx Museum or just walking along the beach.

People talk to you, smile, say good morning: they don’t seem to be in a rush. As people said to me, it’s all about “10 years behind ’cross over”.

Hotels and guest houses adorn the prom and a room with a sea view is a must. Watching the tides – whether it’s the stone-cracking waves or the gentle ripples creeping up the beach to hide the seaweed and rock pools with a silvery mirror – is mesmerising.

The Calf of Man on the southern tip of the island has views towards Ireland across the Sound. Pic: Fiona Laing

Much as Douglas is easy to explore, travelling out of the capital is worth the effort. I have the options of a comprehensive bus network, the electric railway or a steam train and the island is only 32 miles long and a maximum of 14 miles wide.

For my first day trip I take the bus out of Douglas past the TT Grandstand, along roads with the black and white markings of the TT course, through villages clinging to the cliffs, into the northern port and resort of Ramsey. Here a distillery has embraced the spirit world not just in making gin, rum and whisky but in its name. The Fynoderee - half man, half billy-goat - is known for good-naturedly assisting those he befriends around the island.

This year, owners Paul and Tiffany Kerruish are doing their own bit of good by celebrating the 200th anniversary of the RNLI with a beautiful gin. There’s also a charity rum ageing in barrels in the Tower of Refuge, a monument built on behalf of RNLI founder Sir William Hillary in the bay at Douglas. With the distillery located at the terminus for the Manx Electric Railway, a tram is the perfect way to return to Douglas. We rattle along the rails in the polished wood carriages dating back to 1893.

At Laxey – home of the towering red water wheel which kept the mines dry – I could have opted to explore this intriguing site. And I had really wanted to take the five-mile Mountain Railway up to the peak of Snaefell – the island’s highest point at 2,034ft – but with a storm approaching, I stay onboard and let the rain lash the windows as I head back to hunker down in that sea view room. In fact, all island flights and ferry services the next day are cancelled.

Castle Rushen at Castletown is a proper toy town fortress with turrets and portcullis, and spectacular views. Pic: Fiona Laing

Alongside all the folklore and legends, there’s plenty of tangible history on the island. Peel on the west coast is probably as good a place to start with both an excellent heritage centre and a cliff-top castle.

House of Manannan explores the layers of island history. The ancient sea god Manannan guides me as Christians, Vikings and Scots leave their footprints on the landscape and influence its people. Notably, the island was part of the kingdom of the Scots until 1272.

I have a Heritage Card which allows free access to Manx National Heritage sites and museums plus the different trams, trains and buses for five days and I certainly make good use of it.

At Castletown, Castle Rushen is a proper toy town fortress with turrets and portcullis. Again it captures the sweep of Manx history. I arrive early – first through the gates – and by the time I reach the top of the castle any morning haar has burnt off and I have spectacular views.

The Fynoderee Distillery in the northern port and resort of Ramsey is named for the half-man, half-goat mythical Manx creature. Pic: Fiona Laing

After thoroughly exploring the castle it is time to see what else the former capital has to offer. There’s a sheltered harbour of mostly pleasure boats, a small pier with the waves still crashing over it and a promenade guarded by tall Edwardian houses.

Shops congregate around the Market Square and the Old House of Keys, once the island’s seat of government. There is a tiny grammar school; long replaced, it is very different from the large modern Castle Rushen High School where the previous day I tried to entertain the students with a careers talk as one of my duties as an invited author at the wonderful Manx LitFest.

My LitFest host takes me to pretty Port St Mary and then around the southern tip of the island, stopping for the views towards Ireland across the Sound guarded by the Calf of Man.

On the west of the peninsula is Port Erin – probably my favourite spot on the island. At the railway station we enjoy homemade cake and coffee and watch the steam trains which inspired Thomas the Tank Engine. Then we wander through the town, past fishermen’s cottages and along the golden sands. In fact, I’m drawn back another day to explore it further before my final treat. Port Erin is the terminus of the Steam Railway and across from the station, and a fascinating museum, is a popular chippy. In an old First Class carriage, we trundle across the countryside towards Castletown and ultimately Douglas, as I tuck into fish and chips.

Travelling has been an important feature of this visit, with ferry, trains, horses, buses and lots of walking, so it’s fitting I depart by plane. We are soon above the patchwork of fields and walls, fringed by the white horses breaking around the rocky coast. In the distance you see the Lancashire and Cumbria coast and below there’s the Irish Sea which took four hours to cross and is now a 10-minute hop. The 35-minute Loganair flight to Edinburgh means there is hardly time for your Tunnock’s Wafer.

Fact Box

Hot chocolate, Manx style. Pic: Fiona Laing

Visit Isle of Man www.visitisleofman.com

Manx LitFest www.manxlitfest.com

Fynoderee Distillery, Ramsey, fynoderee.com

Logan Air flies to Castletown from Edinburgh and several English cities www.loganair.co.uk

Isle of Man Steam Packet sails to Douglas from Liverpool and Heysham www.steam-packet.com

Five-day GO Explore Heritage Adult Pass gives access to all Manx National Heritage sites and Isle of Man Transport services: £69 from manxnationalheritage.im

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