The Craigellachie Hotel, Speyside - review - Come for the whisky, stay for the roaring fires and pub grub - Scotland on Sunday Travel

Come for the whisky, stay for the roaring fires and pub grub says Rosalind Erskine.

Craigellachie Hotel, in the heart of Speyside, whisky country.

A sleepy Highland village is not the first place you’d expect to see the famous faces of Naomi Campbell, Sadie Frost and Kate Moss, but guests at the re-opening of the 19th-century Craigellachie Hotel did just that.

The models and celebrities may have left, but the style and charm have remained. With just 26 rooms, the mustard-coloured building will become a familiar site for those touring the popular malt whisky trail.

The hotel is owned by London-based businessman Piers Adams and this celeb-filled re-opening took place in 2015 after a reported £3 million revamp. As with any good hotel in this region, the bar’s almost become as much as a selling point as ‘staying in Kate Moss’s room.’ At Craigellachie you’ll find the Copper Dog bar (a namesake whisky was developed by the hotel and sold to Diageo) and the fabled Quaich Bar, whose walls are lined with single malt whiskies and, style-wise, wouldn’t look out of place in a Wes Anderson film.

Budget or boutique?

Despite the famous clientele and boutique style, this four-star abode won’t break the bank with rooms starting at £155 a night.

Room service

The upstairs rooms and public areas have furnishings from nearby Johnstons of Elgin. The spacious sitting room has a pastel colour palette with cashmere throws, and while there are still antlers on the walls and hints of tartan, there’s nothing twee here.

With executive chef and general manager Will Halsall at the helm Craigellachie Hotel showcases local produce in a small but well-considered menu.

Artwork of simple line drawings of dogs by British artist Hugo Guinness can be found throughout the hotel, and are a nod to the hotel’s canine-friendly policy (four-legged friends are allowed everywhere apart from at breakfast).

My room was very spacious with views out across the hotel grounds where a glimpse of the famous Craigellachie bridge could be seen. A sage green painted modern four poster bed, complete with Johnstons of Elgin throw, took centre stage but there was also a comfy sofa, chaise lounge, antique wardrobe, bookcase and desk area.The traditional style ensuite has a tub and rain shower, and plenty of storage for toiletries.

Wining and dining

Will Halsall took up the position of executive chef and general manager of the Craigellachie Hotel last summer. Will’s past restaurants include Le Caprice London, The Ivy and 34 Mayfair, which are far-flung from Speyside but Will said “ moving away from London’s restaurant scene was an easy decision.With world class produce on our door-step in Speyside, I have the opportunity to help put The Craigellachie Hotel and restaurant on the map and that’s a really exciting opportunity for a chef.”

One of the 26 rooms, which feature local textiles.

Will showcases this local produce in a small but well-considered menu of Scottish Speyside tapas which includes dishes such as Grants of Speyside haggis bon bons and Speyside beef. I went for a starter of smoked haddock and leek croquettes served with tartare sauce and a small watercress salad. For main, it had to be the Craigellachie burger served with optional bacon jam and Strathdon blue cheese and a side of crunchy skinny fries. This is high class pub food and it’s as comforting as the cosy fires in the hotel. For drinks, the apple dog - Copper Dog whisky served with fresh apple juice - has become my go-to drink.

Breakfast offers hearty Scottish fare such as a full Scottish breakfast or traditional porridge, or a light buffet of fruits, cereal and juices.

Worth getting out of bed for

If you love whisky, this place is heaven as Speyside is home to more than 50 distilleries (look out for the pagoda-style chimneys that punctuate the skyline or follow the brown signs for the Malt Whisky Trail). Nearby you’ll find big name distilleries such as Aberlour, Glenfiddich and the revamped Macallan. The blending experience at Strathisla is ideal for those looking to test their skills and is located in a beautiful new room in what’s thought of as one of Scotland’s prettiest distilleries.

There's room to relax at Craigellachie Hotel, Speyside.

The Speyside cooperage is also only about a 15-minute walk away, for those looking to find out more about this age-old craft and watch the coopers at work creating and repairing casks.

If you’d rather see sights that aren’t whisky related, there’s fishing and plenty of historic sites – including Brodie Castle – or you could visit Knockando Woolmill and Johnstons of Elgin to bring home some of the hotel’s style.

Little extras

The bathroom has White Company toiletries and the tea and coffee station (coffee comes courtesy of a Nespresso) also has Walkers shortbread, baked just over a mile away.

Guestbook comments

Ideally located for exploring the malt whisky trail, the Craigellachie has a charm which suits its location.

The Copper Dog bar, Craigellachie Hotel.

As with all hospitality businesses, Craigellachie Hotel has been changed by the covid-19 pandemic, with many staff familiar to regulars no longer working there. The breakfast menu when we visited was minimal and served in the Copper Dog instead of the usual room opposite the Quaich bar (which was also closed for a refresh). But despite all this, it’d take a lot to diminish this hotel’s star appeal.

Rooms start from £175 a night. Craigellachie Hotel, Victoria St, Craigellachie, Speyside AB38 9SR (01340 881 204, www.craigellachiehotel.co.uk)