Review: Principal York - a destination celebrating the age of the train - Scotland on Sunday Travel

With a fast rail link to a city that celebrates the train, a weekend break couldn’t be smoother
Principal York, a former railway hotel, is located right next to the main station in York. Pic: ContributedPrincipal York, a former railway hotel, is located right next to the main station in York. Pic: Contributed
Principal York, a former railway hotel, is located right next to the main station in York. Pic: Contributed

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Our weekend away in York had a railway theme from the outset and couldn’t have been smoother. We travelled on one of LNER’s swish new eco-friendly Azuma trains from Edinburgh and took in the beautiful Northumbrian coastline from our seats, dining on plant burgers and bacon rolls as we sped by to arrive in style at York two hours and 23 minutes later, refreshed and raring to go. Built using Japanese bullet train technology, there’s faster wifi, sockets at every seat, more luggage space overhead and room all round.

With the platform In York leading straight to the revolving doors of Principal York, a former station hotel, it was a matter of moments before we entered the light-filled, late-Victorian beauty. Refurbished by award-winning interior architects Goddard Littlefair the hotel may hark back to the great age of the train but it isn’t stuck in the past with contemporary interiors, the popular Refectory Kitchen & Terrace and Chapter House Bar, swimming pool, sauna and gym.

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With views of the gothic Minster, city walls and lawns down to the river, the hotel is right in the heart of York and ideally placed for exploring.

The LNER Azuma train with a view of Lindisfarne, Northumberland, on its way South. Pic: ContributedThe LNER Azuma train with a view of Lindisfarne, Northumberland, on its way South. Pic: Contributed
The LNER Azuma train with a view of Lindisfarne, Northumberland, on its way South. Pic: Contributed

Budget or boutique

It’s four star and the sort of place where Sir Topham Hat, Thomas the Tank Engine’s Controller, would feel at home, but its welcoming staff and relaxed atmosphere make it popular with families and couples on a weekend away too.

Room Service

Subtle tones of taupe and grey, ochre and sage in the 155 rooms echo the hotel’s overall palette and make for a restful stay. Our twin room had excellent views of York’s 13th-century Walls and plenty of wardrobe space as well as a TV, mini fridge and tea and coffee making facilities to keep us refreshed, while its spacious ensuite bathroom was fittingly elegant and airy.

Subtle tones in the 155 rooms, which have views of the Minster and Walls, echo the hotel’s overall palette. Pic: Contributed/Tim WinterSubtle tones in the 155 rooms, which have views of the Minster and Walls, echo the hotel’s overall palette. Pic: Contributed/Tim Winter
Subtle tones in the 155 rooms, which have views of the Minster and Walls, echo the hotel’s overall palette. Pic: Contributed/Tim Winter

Wining and Dining

With York to explore we headed out to Ask Italian restaurant for pizza and pasta that was a cut above, and back at the hotel, chocolate inspired afternoon tea with sandwiches stacked on tiered plates and delicate cakes served in The Garden Room lounge with its huge sofas and massive windows overlooking the lawns is a treat.

Breakfast in The Refectory Kitchen & Terrace serves classic British dishes and pulls out all the stops with hot choices made to order as well as a help yourself buffet with the component parts to build yourself a full English. There’s a huge choice of cereals, fresh fruit, cut meats, cheese, fresh fruit, various juices and racks full of toast and marmalade to send you on your way groaning like Thomas the Tank’s Percy when his trucks are overloaded.

Worth getting out of bed for

The National Railway Musum is full of fascinating railway related items, from trains to waiting room signs, and is free. Pic: ContributedThe National Railway Musum is full of fascinating railway related items, from trains to waiting room signs, and is free. Pic: Contributed
The National Railway Musum is full of fascinating railway related items, from trains to waiting room signs, and is free. Pic: Contributed

After a walk around the walls, a leisurely boat trip on the Ouse beckoned with City Cruises (£13) providing a fascinating, funny and informative commentary and we disembarked significantly better informed about the city.

Back on dry land a meander past the impressive Minster whose bells were in full chime, saw us wandering through York’s cobbled streets filled with eclectic shops, cafes and bars, which invite you to linger.

Finally you can’t visit York without a trip to the free entry National Railway Museum. You don’t have to be a train spotter to love this recently expanded attraction with everything railway related, from locomotives to carriages to station clocks and signs. The Flying Scotsman and Mallard, the world’s fastest steam locomotive, are popular draws and there’s a cafe and shop in which to loiter and buy souvenirs.

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Back outside there’s a little motorised ‘train’ with carriages to take you along the road to the city centre, popular with all ages. It was fun but it wouldn’t get us home so it was time to head to the station, board the Azuma once more and spend the journey wondering why, when it’s so easy, we don’t do it more often.

The elegant Garden Room lounge at Principal, York. Pic: ContributedThe elegant Garden Room lounge at Principal, York. Pic: Contributed
The elegant Garden Room lounge at Principal, York. Pic: Contributed

Little extras

A hospitality tray with kettle, tea, coffee and biscuits in the room was welcome.

Guestbook comments

Next door to York’s main station this hotel is a homage to the age of the train and perfectly placed for a stylish stopover or as a first class destination in itself.

Hotel prices. See website (theprincipalyork.com) for rates as they vary. Current offer: Sunday nights, double room £99 if spend £50 in bar or restaurant.

LNER Edinburgh to York: see website for latest prices, lner.co.uk or via the LNER app.

The Principal, Station Rd, York YO24 1AA, (01904 653681, theprincipalyork.com), (01904 653681, theprincipalyork.com)