Review: Hotel Kakola, Turku, Finland – Scotland on Sunday Travel

Kakola Hotel and Spa is situated in a former prison in the town of Turku, two hours' journey by train from the Finnish capital of Helsinki. Credit: Contributed

By Fiona Laing

Published 6th Aug 2023, 04:55 GMT

Updated 9th Aug 2023, 12:42 GMT

I’m in jail – but there is absolutely no need to come and rescue me.

Once Kakola was the byword for incarcerating criminals in Finland but today it is a most luxurious and intriguing place to stay. This hilltop prison complex in Turku has been transformed into the most comfortable hotel with only its quirky décor to remind you of the previous occupants. There are shackles in the corridors, chains on the ceilings and the old prison doors and iron stairs have been incorporated into the design – but it’s all done in a way which keeps making me smile.

My luxurious room at Hotel Kakola gives few clues to its past life as two cells, although the curtain material incorporates the floorpan of the prison should I wish to plot my escape. In fact, I could have had a proper cell with bars, bunk beds and toilet in the corner, reminiscent of the space the Kakola prisoners would have occupied before it shut in 2007.

The comfortable bedrooms at Hotel Kakola in Turku Finland have been created by combining former prison cells. Pic: Wellu Hämäläinen

What all prisoners would have dreamed of was sailing away to freedom through the archipelago which surrounds Turku. For wannabe seafarers, the owners’ family yacht has been transformed into a hotel suite encased in glass.

The rest of the Kakola hill is worth exploring and they run tours. First there was an asylum, then, in 1853, a granite jail was built at the top by the prisoners who quarried the rock from the hillside. It is now home to swanky flats, the hotel spa, a restaurant, brewery and bakery. The hotel is housed in the later red brick prison built lower down the hill. The hill’s stories of crime, social history and its recent regeneration saga almost eclipse the town’s own complex history.

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Turku (or Åbo in Swedish) traces its history back to 1229 and its position in the Finnish Archipelago, on the fringe of the Baltic Sea, gave it a strategic importance through the centuries. The history is a fascinating backdrop but what is drawing tourists to modern day Turku – which is about two hours from Helsinki by train – is its gastronomy. Its restaurants are pushing boundaries and serving up clever, sophisticated – yet authentic – flavour-packed dishes. From simple wholesome fish stews to Michelin star menus, Turku’s chefs play international games with traditional tastes and fresh produce from this fertile part of southern Finland.

In the warm summer months, visitors are drawn to Turku's Aura River where there are cafes and restaurants in elegant stone buildings, riverside pavilions and on ships. Pic: Contributed

Budget or boutique

Hotel Kakola is definitely not off-the-shelf: it is a unique boutique experience.

Room service

The hotel has thought of everything from the big comfy bed to the welcome chocolates, choice of toiletries and on-trend colour scheme. The high small bathroom window is one

Turku was capital of Finland for three years in the 19th century before losing its title to Helsinki. Pic: Jemina Sormunen

reminder of the prison but the balcony most definitely is not.

Wining and dining

Turku picked up its first Michelin star in 2022, underlining its position as a foodie destination. The Michelin-starred Kaskis has a sister restaurant – Kakolan Ruusu, which

just happens to be close to the hotel.

The swimming pool and spa complex at Hotel Kakola, Turku, Finland. Pic: Contributed

The uphill stroll to the old granite prison is rewarded with a Feast. Kakolan Ruusu’s menu is built around wood-fire cooking and shared plates and the atmosphere is convivial, with

a nice buzz about the place which includes a cosy bar. The six courses – each a symphony of seasonal tastes and textures – start with a classy tartar where the meet sings out beneath the flakes of cheese and against the crunchy salad. The finale is a petal-topped crispy choux pastry filled with soft crème anglais and spring rhubarb.

Worth getting out of bed for?

In the warm summer months, the city flourishes with visitors drawn to the Aura River where there are cafes and restaurants not just in the elegant stone buildings, but also in riverside pavilions and on ships. The river – and the 40,000 islands of the archipelago – is woven into the city’s culture. On its banks, the cathedral with it soaring Gothic arches and the stout defensive castle can help unravel the multi-layered history of this strategic city. Both are impressive enough just to admire, but they also document Turku’s journey through the power struggles of the Baltic kingdoms before emerging as Finland’s capital in 1809 – for three brief years until it lost the title to Helsinki. The city centre reflects its prestigious past – with elegant neoclassical buildings – and its modern love affair for the arts. Statues and installations punctuate your walks and you can soak up a quirky juxtaposition of ancient remains with works by modern artists at the Museum of Archaeology Contemporary Art.

The must-do attractions are worth the effort, but much of the charm of Turku is in wandering along the river, stopping for a coffee and people watching and with summer

temperatures around 20C it’s worth taking your time.

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Little extras

One Finnish experience not to miss is the sauna and the Kakola Spa does not disappoint. Housed in the granite prison, this complex is much more than a sauna. You can float in the saltwater pool, take a Jacuzzi massage, experience an invigorating snow shower or ice bath, and even order a drink at the swim-up bar. But relaxing in the sauna, as it soothes my weary bones, is the best post-sightseeing treat I could imagine.

Guest book comment

You can send me to jail in Turku any time you want.