Hotel Review: The Airds - a foodie paradise in Port Appin, Argyll

The rain seemed to be getting heavier, and the night darker, with each twist and turn of our Friday night journey from east to west across mainland Scotland in anticipation of a first-time visit to Port Appin.

The Airds at dusk.

But any lingering doubts about whether or not our three-hour drive would be worth it were pretty much dispelled instantly on arrival at The Airds.

Parked up outside the hotel and restaurant, we were still pondering how to try to avoid a drenching when we spotted a welcoming figure ready to greet us underneath an enormous umbrella.

General manager Robert McKay ushered us inside, where we enjoyed the warming glow from a roaring fire and a perfectly chilled glass of fizz, and took in the cosily chic surroundings in the two lounges, where the well-stocked bookcases and tastefully displayed original works of art offer plenty of distractions.

Dating back to the 18th century, when it was originally operated as an inn for people travelling to and from the nearby Isle of Lismore, these days The Airds is an off-the-beaten-track luxury retreat which has had a longstanding emphasis on its fine dining experiences.

Its restaurant is recommended in the Michelin Guide for 2020, boasts three AA rosettes and it has featured in the Good Food Guide for culinary excellence going back more than 40 years.

Heading upstairs for a freshen-up in the Loch View Suite, it was obvious why The Airds was also crowned the Best Luxury Hotel in the Good Hotel Guide 2020 and the Scottish Luxury Hotel of the Year in 2019.

Our suite’s spacious bedroom, adjoining lounge and large en-suite were stylishly decorated and focused on comfort with lots of luxurious touches including Frette linen, Bulgari toiletries and a tempting decanter of Whisky Mac.

We felt immediately at home, yet we had to wait until the morning, when a tray of coffee and pastries were delivered to our room before breakfast, before we could see that the views also lived up to their reputation.

Although the candlelit dining room was slightly more formal than we were used to, the discreetly attentive staff instantly put us at ease in our window seat. The fact that guests are politely pre-warned not to use electronic devices in the dining room was a refreshing welcome touch.

Impressed by The Airds’ pledge that all of its fish is sourced from local sustainable and ethical suppliers, it was hard to resist taking the plunge into starters of Inverawe smoked salmon, which was served with quails egg, chervil panna cotta and pickled radish, and the Mull crab and tomato roulade, which was accompanied by squid ink tuile, oyster emulsion and compressed cucumber, dishes which were delicate and delicious in equal measures.

Local produce was also to the fore in the main courses of roast monkfish and smoked gnocchi, confit leeks, mussel tempura and wilted red chard, and the Newtonmore venison, with creamed cabbage, parsley root, pommes dauphine, and red wine and bramble jus.

Airds breakfast room

But it was the dessert combination of mirabelle plum souffle with earl grey ice cream and cinnamon doughnut which really blew us away - a testament to the flair and imagination which is clearly at work in the kitchen.

Our first daylight glimpse of one of the hotel’s big selling points - its dreamy views overlooking the Morvern mountains, Loch Linnhe and a lighthouse on a rocky outcrop, and its own garden, where everything from afternoon tea to croquet can be enjoyed - was worth waiting for.

Around half an hour’s drive from Oban, the Port Appin fishing village and the peaceful Appin peninsula off the main A828 road are a world away from the bustling seafood capital of the west coast.

But with its many lochside vantage points and dramatic mountainous backdrops, the area is rightfully renowned as one of the most picturesque spots in Argyll, even boasting its own romantic ruin, the 15th century Castle Stalker, which famously features in the finale of Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

Airds winter sunset

We whiled away the afternoon strolling around the coast on the peninsula’s headland, gazing out across Airds Bay, posing for pictures at local landmark, a raised natural arch called Clach Thoull or ‘hole in the rock’ in Gaelic.

After a browse in The Lighthouse craft shop and gallery, which sells the work of more than 120 Scottish artists and makers, we repaired to the hotel lounge for a pre-dinner drink, drawn from the mouthwatering selection of Scottish gins.

The seven course tasting menu on our second evening elevated the fine dining stakes at The Airds even further.

Brie bonbon, with Beurre noisette foam and chargrilled leek, and the Loch Fyne langoustine, with oyster emulsion and mussel tempura were our stand-outs.

The black cherry parfait, with amaretto jelly and cinnamon doughnut, and bramble souffle, with hazelnut ice cream, provided a triumphant fanfare.

The Airds is running a three-for-the-price-of-two break offer over the autumn and winter, from £815 per room, including dinner each evening. Four nights for the price of three is available from £1160 per room, with the addition of a chilled bottle of champagne on arrival and an afternoon cream tea on the day of choice. Packages are available from 1 November-31 March, with certain dates excluded.

The luxurious lounge at The Airds. Picture: EiIidh Cameron

A “treats en suite” package is available throughout November in the hotel’s master suite to allow guests to be served their gourmet dinner in their room, from £540.

Special three-night “Twixmas” offers are running between Christmas and Hogmanay, arriving on Sunday 27 December. Tel: [phone], www.airds-hotel.com, [email protected]

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