Golfing in Turkey - Scotland on Sunday Travel

A variety of activities, sociable companions and all-inclusive accommodation make for adventure breaks for all

The five-star Sirene Belek Hotel, Antalya, Turkey. Pic: Contributed

Beware the honest joker! I stepped off another mercilessly crammed EasyJet flight into a Kempinski five-star womb to meet my fellow Solos travellers. ‘Ah, Minty Clinch, the world’s worst golfer’; Nick Fletcher paused for a nanosecond too long before adding, ‘but the world’s nicest person’. Bob, Rob, Tony (x2) and Kev (x3) looked up from their beef in alarm. They were here for the golf, not to replace late wives with rubbish females who might want to join them on their home links. A joke? As the standout host for the winning Solos golf program, Nick is known for them throughout the Mediterranean and beyond. Like all good ones, his rely on germs of truth, in this instance significantly more of them on the first point than the second.

When it started back in 1982, Solos pitched for the 50+ singles market with trips to sun spots that combined as much action as anyone wanted - golf, tennis, hiking, sightseeing - balanced by relaxation fuelled by food and drink. Own room, no singles supplement.

Minimal internet so matching was a factor. On my only previous Solos trip, a Spanish cheapie about ten years ago, two of the widowed men had found second wives on 1990s excursions, lost them and returned for another look. Very unlikely in 2024: one recent widower had selected his new partner through plentymorefish.com; as she’s not a golfer, he was already back with his Solos family in the Kempinski Dome in Belek, southern Turkey’s purpose-built tribute to the pulling power of the dimpled ball.

The PGA Sultan championship course at the five-star Sirene Belek Hotel, Turkey. Pic: Contributed

Nowadays Solos has updated its remit: any age, any civil status, but only one half of any couple at a time. The result was a group in which most knew 40-50% of their fellow travellers. ‘I’ve been on about 40 of these things’, said one of three Steves. He was not alone. Out of 30 guests roughly two thirds were men; the home spread was diverse, with a bias towards Yorkshire and Lancashire and two sparky ladies, one from Edinburgh, one from Glasgow. The theme was total golf immersion: club lore, rules lore, equipment lore, kit lore….

The wrong clothes was the topic on everyone’s tongue the next morning. From inside looking out, it was a blinding bluebird day. I emerged in southern Med whites, golf shirt and sun hat, ready to soak up the November warmth. My companions looked at me with pity as I hit the freezing wind in the forecourt. I fetched my only jersey; it was not enough. These conditions occur when the wind blows off the mountain behind the resort, a brisk north easter from the Asian heartland. It doesn't happen often but factor it in; pro shop prices at the Antalya golf club conjure up national debts.

There followed a bitter five-hour struggle on the magnificent PGA Sultan championship course. On this occasion, the first hole into the wind, a narrow landing strip between water hazards, was a long hitter's nightmare; any slightly deviant ball landed squarely in a lake. Short and straight found perfect turf. Result!

But my respite was brief. Historically, Sultans were known for being unforgiving and unrelenting; with water on 11 holes, mainly on the front nine, this one runs true to type. The back nine are more varied, with changes of direction and elevation that reward clear thinking and a realistic approach as to what might or might not be possible.

Reception and lounge area at the Sirene Belek Hotel, Antalya, Turkey, Pic: Contributed

Justin Rose found the answers when he won the $1.5 million Turkish Airlines World Final in 2012. In his absence, Nick implemented the Solos golf agenda, putting people into four ball teams for a daily competition: bowmaker, best two scores to count, other familiar variations. Given partners who play blinders, anyone can win. When Nick announced who had at the daily 7pm cocktail gathering, it was us. Great ball striking, guys.

In the course of the week, guests play two rounds on Sultan and three on Pasha, also designed by Northern Ireland’s David Jones, but in a mellower mood. It is a bit shorter, a lot kinder and equally well presented and maintained. On day two, the sun was out and the wind had dropped so one shirt and one jersey were well warm enough. Other Belek Solos holidays include a round on Lykia Links a few kilometres towards Syria. As its name suggests, it runs along the shore, the only course in Belek built near sparkling sea reserved elsewhere by hotels.

One of the plus points for this kind of Solos holiday is inclusivity. Nick could ensure that no one was socially excluded with a clear conscience because no one had to buy rounds of drinks. As he pointed out, there are always those who do and those who don’t. Those who routinely mutter, ‘ must be my turn…’ as others stand up to take requests are familiar to us all.

At the Antalya golf club, tabs must be paid so Solos nip back into the five-minute shuttle, stash their clubs with the concierge and head for the Kempinski’s beach bar restaurant. Beers arrive, likewise champagne and rose, likewise spicy prawns in garlic butter, fish of the day, meze, calamari and other pleasures. In such relaxed circumstances, the potential for dissecting every shot is unlimited - and mightily indulged. Afterwards there’s time for a massage, a Turkish bath, a workout, a swim in the Med, perhaps a self indulgent doze on the bed, before evening drinks.

Outdoor seating at the hotel makes the most of the sunny Antalya weather. Pic: Contributed

For breakfast, lunch and dinner a buffet spread over counters in two large open spaces caters for most tastes. Rib of beef, hamburgers, sushi and a lot of most things in between. Five a day and counting, all fresh and temptingly displayed. Nick will also reserve dinners in the hotel’s a la carte restaurants on request: Cilantro for Italian, Trader’s Spice for Asian, both subject to extra charges.

As the evening plays out, the competitive head for the Putters’s bar where a pool table clatters away until well after midnight. Others prefer the calm of the piano bar. Most try both. Several guests had booked back to back weeks. Buyer beware: these holidays are seriously addictive.

Solos (solos holidays.co.uk; 020 8951 2900): March 16-23, luxury all inclusive golf holiday in 5 star Sirene Belek Hotel, single occupancy junior suite, two rounds on Sultan, two on Pasha, one on Lykia Links, plus flights from UK regional airports (including Edinburgh) to Antalya and transfers, from £2,015. The Dome Kempinski is currently closed for renovation but will return to the Solos programme in 2025.