Dog-friendly adventures on Orkney - Scotland on Sunday Travel

Exploring the Ring of Brodgar, Orkney. Pic: R Erskine

There are some unexpected dog-friendly venues in Scotland. Who knew, for example, that you can book your pampered pooch into Gleneagles with you? Or marvel at the Picasso at The Fife Arms with Fido? It's not just five star hotels either, many restaurants, cafes and bars are not only welcoming dogs with open arms but providing menus and accessories. Seventy-eight per cent of pet owners acquired a dog during the pandemic, as working from home led to a more flexible work/life balance, which is why accommodating these four-legged friends is becoming the norm. All of this is music to my ears as I'm always on the hunt for places to enjoy with my cockapoo Archie (and my partner). One of the latest to welcome dogs is Northlink Ferries, who, this spring, opened a dog-friendly lounge on board its MV Hamnavoe ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, return. Archie and I were the first to try it, on a very pooch-friendly few days in Orkney.

We were booked on the 8am sailing from Scrabster so stayed overnight in the dog-friendly annexe suite at the Auld Post Office B&B in Spittal-by-Mybster, Caithness, just a 20-minute drive to the ferry terminal. Other, closer pet-friendly accommodation is available at Forss House in Thurso and Castletown Hotel. After a swift check in to the ferry, we were on board and in the lounge (with Archie sporting his natty NorthLink bandana). There's a mix of bench and individual seating, all with tables, and handy plug sockets. Seats are comfortable and decked in bright turquoise or blue fabric. We sat near the windows to enjoy the sunny morning views of the crossing, with Archie enjoying treats, water and claps from the staff who came to say hello.

Once on Orkney, it was a short drive from Stromness to the Kirkwall Hotel, an impressive old Victorian stone building overlooking the harbour in the main town. Dating back to 1670, it has recently had a revamp. Rooms are grey with tweed accessories, stylish lamps and metro tiled bathrooms with rain showers and tubs. Our harbour view room was comfortable and offered lovely views. Downstairs in the public areas, there was plenty of seating in the Highland park bar while the Harbourview restaurant was a study in modern seaside decor, with a menu of fresh local seafood, steaks and vegetarian options. Next door is the dog friendly Skippers bar, a cosy, lively space.

Archie in his Northlink Ferries bandana in the new dog-friendly lounge on board its MV Hamnavoe ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, Orkney. Pic: R Erskine

Dog-friendly restaurants, cafes and bars on Orkney

While it’d be very easy to stay and relax in the hotel, there are plenty of other dog-friendly places to stop in for a bite to eat or a drink in Kirkwall and beyond. For lunch, Judith Glue and The Real Food Cafe and Restaurant is pet-friendly, offering a range of sandwiches, soup and home bakes as well as tea and coffee. It gets very busy so best to head along early. It’s also an Aladdin's Cave of gifts, homeware and local produce. For a quick takeaway coffee before a walk, we couldn’t recommended Archive Coffee enough (their fruit scones were excellent too) Post walk, the Daily Scoop has a wide range of ice creams, as well as lunch options, and happily created a dog-friendly treat of whipped cream dotted with bits of kibble (Archie was a huge fan).

One evening we drove to the Murray Arms hotel and seafood restaurant in St Margaret's Hope. This is well worth the journey, not only because the drive across the Churchill Barriers is scenic but the meal of fresh seafood (we recommended the seafood platter of the day) was delicious, and the bar/restaurant is extremely dog-friendly.

Top dog walks on Orkney

Archie settles in to a pet-friendly cabin on board Northlink Ferries' HM Hamnavoe from Scrabster to Stromness. Pic: R Erskine

You're spoiled for choice for walks on Orkney, with many passing through ancient sites such as the Ring of Brodgar and the standing stones of Stenness. A popular walk which doesn’t require a drive is the Crantit Trail, which is situated on the outskirts of Kirkwall, by Scapa beach (another great dog destination). Other beaches include Skaill Beach, Sands of Wright, Mussetter, Sands of Evie, Brough of Birsay beach, Rackwick and Grobust. We undertook a long but not too strenuous beach and cliff walk loop.

More dog walks can be found via the Northlink Ferries website - https://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/orkney-blog/orkney-dog-walks/

A must visit while on Orkney is Scapa distillery and their new tasting room, the Scapa Noust. The tasting room offers an immersive experience for those looking to taste whisky with views out over Scapa Flow and the dramatic Orcadian landscape. The whole room has been designed with elements of shipping and the sea. There are nautical design touches from the local area, including a traditional naval radio desk donated by a local Orcadian, as well as a helmet which is over 100 years old and was used by the British navy up until the 1970s. The distillery opening times are: January - March: Thursday and Friday, 10am–12pm and 1-5pm. April - December: Tuesday – Saturday, 10am-12pm and 1pm-5pm.

Where we stayed

The Daily Scoop in Kirkwall has a wide range of ice creams, as well as lunch options, and has created a dog-friendly treat of whipped cream dotted with bits of kibble (Archie was a huge fan). Pic: R Erskine

Kirkwall Hotel

Harbour St, Kirkwall KW15 1LE

https://www.kirkwallhotel.com/

Dog-friendly rooms must be pre-booked and there’s an extra charge of £20 per dog, per night. The hotel will provide a bed and treats but you’ll need to bring your own bowl, and essentials such as poo bags and a towel.

Scapa Beach, one of Orkney's many beautiful beaches. Pic: R Erskine

NorthLink Ferries info

NorthLink Ferries welcomes pets on all its passenger vessels and this initiative follows the success of pet-friendly cabins, introduced in recent years on MV Hjaltland, MV Hrossey and MV Hamnavoe. Pet owners also have the option to pre-book their pet into the on-board kennels or keep their pet in their vehicle for the crossing.

The dog lounge on MV Hamnavoe has space to accommodate up to eight dogs at a time. Priority will be given to those with a booking, so customers are encouraged to reserve a free place in the dog lounge when finalising their travel. Dog lounge entry can also be added to a previously made booking online, or by contacting NorthLink Ferries.

As our return to Scrabster was an early one, we booked a dog-friendly cabin on board the ferry for the night before sailing. Dog treats and a water bowl was included, and we all slept well, before heading upstairs for breakfast in the lounge as sailing commenced.

Visit www.northlinkferries.co.uk/the-journey/travelling-with-pets/ to find out more about pet-friendly travel options with NorthLink Ferries.