I tried dinner cooked by Edinburgh's best chef, in these iconic gardens after closing time

I’m such a rule follower that it gives me a frisson to be anywhere after closing hours.

It felt strangely naughty, being in the Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh, post 6pm.

Someone was waiting for us at the East Gate, and it was oh-so-quiet inside. 

No children, no first dates. Even the resident squirrels had bedded down, the cats had trotted home for their evening Sheba and we’re sure we could hear the smelly titan arum snoring in its glasshouse.

The collection of humans who’d arrived, for a very special dinner, were assembled under a cluster of giant redwoods, for a wee cocktail of Champagne, gin and a floating orange marigold, in anticipation of what was to come. 

Chef Roberta Hall McCarron of Edinburgh’s Michelin guide listed The Little Chartroom, as well as Eleanore and new addition, Ardfern, was in attendance, to cook a five-course dinner, as part of her collaboration with catering company, Heritage Portfolio. 

The event is designed to showcase the sustainable produce that’s been grown in the gardens, and is also served as part of the RBGE menus in their own Gateway and Terrace cafes. 

This was the first of a few of these events to run this year. Still to come is a Fungi Forms Feast on November 14 at the John Hope Gateway. It will be inspired by the current exhibition at Inverleith House, and, they say, there is another special dinner in mid-December, with details tbc, plus a cooking demonstration and a special dish, created by Hall McCarron that will appear in their cafes. 

Even more exciting foodie things will be happening in 2025.  They’re keeping schtum until later, though.

Tonight’s event was in Caledonian Hall - a B-listed venue, originally built in 182 as a herbarium, and which is most often used for wedding receptions. 

The other guests at this dinner looked like green-fingered garden people. There were plenty of floral prints, and Monty Don-esque wild curls, though, thankfully, no dirty fingernails. I felt like an interloper, since I am a serial plant killer. Even the house cactus has had its chips.

Each course was presented by Hall McCarron, who was working from whatever kitchen that’s pillion to this smart hall.

The most memorable moments of the meal included a breezy and light first course of herb gazpacho, crab, toasted almonds and summer vegetables including segments of charred sweetcorn, like tiny yellow abacus, and peppery halved radishes. This beautiful dish was topped with viola flowers - the purple ones that signified love in Victorian times.

Contributed | Contributed

It was followed by an octopus tentacle that was draped across Isle of Wight tomatoes of various shades - green yellow and blood red, with a blob of lovage mayo on the side.

We had a third course of ricotta, agnolotti, cultivated maitake mushrooms, feathery pecorino and a fermented wild garlic sauce that was so satisfyingly strong that we’d be guaranteed not to be pestered by vampires for at least a decade. One breath would instantly send them clattering back to their coffins.

“I’m a feeder, I can’t help it” said Roberta, when she presented the main course. 

Everyone laughed, then looked down at their plates and mouthed the word ‘wow’.

Roberta Hall McCarron | Contributed

She wasn't down-sizing yet. We each had a slab of musky beef sirloin that was doused with green peppercorn sauce, along with a side of soft-centred hash brown bricks to share. Each of these were topped with chevrons of a bright yellow mustard emulsion.

We went out with a bang, as pudding was a strawberry and lime choux, with roasted vanilla Chantilly cream. It felt like probably the last summery thing I’ll eat this year. 

All of this feast was bookended by savoury snacks, including gildas, and there was a petit four of dark cherry chocolates at the other end. 

As ever, it’s a thrill to be eating this chef’s food, but also to be in the iconic gardens after dark.

They probably should’ve have let me in, as I wanted to run off, and spend the night sleeping under a monkey puzzle tree.

Luckily, a member of staff escorted us out and the gate closed firmly behind us. 

For more information on future Royal Botanic Gardens Edinburgh events, see www.rbge.org.uk and for more information on Heritage Portfolio, see www.heritageportfolio.co.uk