Inside the unique art-inspired Victorian coaching inn that's home to an original Picasso, waxwork Queen Victoria and giant 'spider'

The Fife Arms in Braemar - once a Victorian coaching inn - is set to be the place to go in 2019, so what’s it like staying in a hotel that’s home to a Picasso, a giant spider and waxwork of Queen Victoria?

The Royal connection to the small town of Braemar goes back to the 11thcentury, but was made famous by an affection from Queen Victoria. So it comes of no surprise to see an extremely lifelike waxwork of the monarch perched on an opulent chair in the library of the newly opened Fife Arms Hotel.

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Why wouldn’t a hotel which also boasts an original Picasso, Louise Bourgeois‘spider’, a flying stag and a huge neon chandelier also play host to the famous Queen?

Picture: The Flying Stag Bar

Re-opened in December 2018, the unique hotel is owned by Iwan and Manuela Wirth, co-founders of the acclaimed global gallery Hauser & Wirth. Which is why there’s more than 12,000 works of art, antiques, and objets in every nook and cranny.

The transformation of the Victorian coaching inn is as dramatic as its interior, which was headed up by Russell Sage Studio (he of the Zetter townhouse and The Goring Hotel fame).

Picture: The Drawing room

Speaking about the project, Russell Sage said: "When we were first approached, we knew this project would be a career highlight simply because of what Iwan and Manuela had created with Hauser & Wirth Somerset in Bruton.

"For The Fife Arms, the project was to restore and totally transform a run down architectural gem at the heart of the historic Scottish town of Braemar, famous for the Highland Games, or Braemar Gathering, as the locals call it.

"Whilst we have drawn on the building’s history and archives to refurbish the 46 bedrooms and many of the ground floor spaces, we also collaborated with Hauser & Wirth’s roster of leading contemporary artists. Over time we have developed a narrative, often local to Braemar itself, for every room and space in the building.

Picture: Red Deer chandelier by Richard Jackson

"The hotel itself will become a fascinating and insightful journey, where guests can explore and experience the different rooms. As well as a large collection of original Scottish Victorian and Aesthetic Movement furniture which correctly dresses the building, there are original pieces which help to tell the hundreds of stories we are sharing with guests.

"I’m personally excited about the little spaces which can often be forgotten in hotels. Here they become an essential part of the story; be it the route of a small staircase between bedroom floor which showcases 100 pieces of taxidermy, a corridor leading to a single bedroom which now becomes a glorious private gallery, or the lift which becomes a pine cone grotto assisted in its construction by the people of Braemar."

Picture: a side staircase

The renovation was inspired by the dramatic landscape, colourful stories and Iwan and Manuela’s appreciation of rich cultural connections of Braemar. And while there are traditional Scottish references in the tweed and tartan elements, no-one that ever visits would dare call this design twee.

With an abundance of taxidermy, luxurious wallpapers, a wrap-around wall mural by Guillermo Kuitca and a mahogany Robert Burns fireplace – it’s like your eccentric elderly aunt’s stately home meets the Tate Modern and has been described by Russell Sage as a career highlight.

As well as stunning interior design, the architect for the renovation was MOXON, headed up by Ben Addy, who grew up in Aberdeenshire.

His plan includes a new beautiful courtyard, as well as well as two new rooms for private events, one being The Fire Room, modelled on The Queen Mother’s favourite picnic hut near Auchtavan.

Picture: The Emperor Suite

Each of the 46 bedrooms have their own special design and theme ranging from ‘The Mountaineer’ one of the smaller, croft rooms, through to the Royal Suites. Each an homage to a place, person, event or activity integral to the life and legacy of Braemar and all with one-of-a-kind furnishings and décor.

Aberdeenshire textile artist Araminta Campbell was commissioned to design and produce both a bespoke tweed and tartan for the refurbishment and staff uniforms.

The result is a tweed that reflects the heritage and character of the hotel, as well as the beautiful landscape in which it sits.

Araminta adapted a Glen Check tweed pattern, drawing on the Green Mar tweed which would have been worn by the original 19th Century founder of The Fife Arms, the Duke of Fife, in his hunting residence nearby.

Picture: The tweed on the wall of the dining room is by Araminta Campbell

Guests who can make their way out of the room and past the artwork, taxidermy and hidden seating nooks, a cocktail or two in Elsa’s bar is a must.

The tiny space with the huge vintage disco ball is located just off the elegant Clunie Dining Room and seats only eight. With twinkling candlelight and a speakeasy feel, the bar is named for designer Elsa Schiaparelli (who often visited Braemar).

The signature cocktail, Shocking Pink - this and the rest of the menu was designed by former Cameron House food and beverage manager - is a delicious aperitif before dinner in the dining room.

Picture: The Clunie dining room.

A simple menu of seasonal dishes created by Executive Chef, Robert Cameron, the Clunie Dining room is also where a buffet an a la carte breakfast is served.

While the hotel is sure to attract visitors from all over, the restored hotel bar - The Flying Stag, with its full sized, swan wing adorned stag - remains a huge part of the local community and serves wonderfully classic pub grub including Cullen skink and a black pudding scotch egg.

Full of obscure treasures and whimsical curiosities, the Fife Arms has to be seen to be believed. Just make sure to stop by the library and tell Victoria all about it.

Rooms are from £130 per night including breakfast.