Wines:The wines are fresh classics yet the German influence is unmistakeable

ADAPTING the “anything but chardonnay” cry of a few years back, this week’s column could be subtitled “anywhere but Germany”.

A DAPTING the “anything but chardonnay” cry of a few years back, this week’s column could be subtitled “anywhere but Germany”. Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing remotely negative involved; quite the reverse. With – in my view – far too little German wine being drunk here, this roundabout way of rekindling interest looks at Germanic-style wines from elsewhere in the world.

The first obvious calling point is Austria and, in particular, the region to the west of Vienna. Although the country produces some good riesling, grüner veltliner is Austria’s most talked-about grape these days. For an excellent example of gru-vee (or groovy, as the Americans call it) try 2010 Domaine Wachau Terrace Grüner Veltliner (£8.49, Waitrose), with its clean, mellow flavours of apples and pear.

Another excellent version is 2009 Laurenz V Friendly Grüner Veltliner (£10, Bibendum) which has a slight prickle and touches of minerality to soften the trademark clean, apple flavours.

Other grape varieties have flourished in Austria and a trip to the areas south of Vienna takes us to the home of 2009 Hartl Rotgipfler Thermenregion (£16.49, Waitrose Direct). This is more aromatic than grüner veltliner and carries a little more residual sugar. That creates tropical fruit influences that soften the main citrus flavours. It is not cheap but it is impressive stuff – and very trendy in the US.

So much, then, for Germany’s south-eastern neighbour but how about the region along its western border – Alsace? The wines there really are French classics yet the German influence is unmistakeable, if the results are somewhat drier than across the Rhine. Riesling is also an important grape here, with some excellent versions emanating from elite producers and the centuries of tradition they embody.

For good-value versions, however, one of the co-operatives may be the place to go. Probably the best known (and now back to top form) is at Turckheim. Give a taste drive, for instance, to 2009 Cave de Turckheim Tradition Riesling (£7.99, Majestic) with the crisp yet gentle lime and kiwi fruit flavours that give it so much tangy, freshness and style.

Despite the quality levels it reaches, riesling here has to cede top billing to another grape variety. Enter the spicy, aromatic gewürztraminer, which has created something of a niche for itself – especially in the increasingly important world of food matching. Turckheim has also been very successful with this grape as can be seen from 2010 Alsace Cave de Turckheim Gewürztraminer (£9.49, M&S).

A step up to a long-standing Alsace producer brings us to the expressive 2009 Domaine Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer (£13.29, Waitrose) with its focused, intense flavours softened by hints of clover honey and with sweeter concluding spices than the Turckheim.

Curiously, however, any consumer reticence about European riesling and its companions does not apply to new world versions. In the 1830s south Australia was a popular refuge for Lutherans avoiding religious persecution and, unsurprisingly, they brought an enthusiasm for (and an aptitude with) grape varieties from their homeland. The Henschke family, for example, in the Eden Valley were originally from Brandenburg and the German-style lime fruit and minerality shines through in their fantastic 2009 Henschke Julius Riesling but combines it with typical Oz intensity and texture; it costs about £20 but do shop around online.

Across the Tasman Sea, a tasty surprise is 2011 Jules Taylor Grüner Veltliner with its gentle parsley nose and ripe melon and pear flavours. It will not be available in the UK until October but Handford and Philglas-Swiggot should be able to provide it online around the £15 mark.

So there are some really classy German-style whites just waiting to be sampled. But perhaps it’s time to revisit German wine itself and stock up while it is so seriously under priced.

2010 Baron de Ley Rioja Rosado Spain, 13.5 per cent Light and floral rosé for grown-ups with a slight prickle behind its strawberry mousse flavours but sufficient substance to handle food. £6.99, Co-op

2009 Gran Tesoro Garnacha Campo de Borja, Spain, 13.5 per cent A cracking, juicy and light everyday red with raspberry and blackcurrant fruit and nice flowery aromas. £4.29, Tesco

2010 La Battistina Gavi Italy, 12 per cent Soft, gentle and perfumed white with appealing red apple and mango flavours and hints of background spice. £8, Vino stores, Edinburgh