Wine: ‘Writers seem to have irrepearably damaged the status of a pie and a pint’

To try to set that record straight, Innis & Gunn recently collaborated with Pieminister of Bristol to demonstrate the glorious tastiness of its Highlander Pies (where the beef has been slow-cooked in Innis & Gunn Original). To judge the success, I assembled a group of tasters to test three Pieminister creations with a collection of potentially matching beers.

Pieminister (www.pieminister.co.uk) was created almost ten years ago by Jon Simon and Tristan Hogg to provide a quirky but gastronomically brilliant antidote to the damage some say Fray Bentos did to a generation. Their Highlander pies are available in 50 or so Scottish Co-op stores.

Predictably, lighter beers provide the best match for the Pietanic Fish Pie – haddock, salmon and pollock in a rich sauce, wrapped in cheddar crumb pastry. Considerable praise went to Weihenstephan Hefe Weissbier (£2.05, Tesco), a cloudy wheat beer from Bavaria, which one taster said “stood back and allowed the pie to state its case”. Others likened its citrus elements to squeezing lemon over the fish.

In a departure from the script, the surprising winner was actually Innis & Gunn Blonde (£1.70, at major supermarkets). Again, the lightness of the beer gave the fish elbow room while the oak played a peripheral role, restricting itself to providing a gentle hint of vanilla. Several tasters also felt the slowly emerging touches of orchard fruits and top layer of orange cut into the creamy sauce nicely.

At the other end of the spectrum came Shamrock Pie – a hearty beef pie with rich, stout-based gravy and a collection of herbs. As often happens in food-matching, the tasters divided into those seeking a complement for the pie and those seeking a contrast.

The best complement was judged to be a traditional brown ale, with all its customary malty fullness and bitter-sweet finish. It certainly resonated well with the stout and spice in the pie. A good illustration of the effect from a Scottish beer could come from Harviestoun Old Engine Oil Dark Beer (£1.90, Cornelius and The Beerhive, Edinburgh). That would match the substance and liquorice influences of brown ale but enliven it with a soft fruit finish of its own.

As a contrast to the food, the vote went to Williams Brothers Joker IPA (£1.89, Sainsbury’s). The fruitiness that starts on the nose and then returns mid-palate combines very effectively with the clean opening taste and the citrus undertones to neutralise the richness of the food.

The final pie was the celebrated Highlander, which accentuates the affinity beef has for bitters and pale ale. Although the Innis & Gunn Original worked satisfactorily, its primary job was done. The best match was Tom Paine Ale, by Sussex brewer Harveys. It is medium-bodied with juicy dark fruit, apricot touches and a spicy and slightly sweet finish. Since it is difficult to find Tom Paine, you could substitute Fullers ESB Champion Ale (£1.99, from major supermarkets). It seems to turbo-charge the contribution of the hops and malt yet still has an undercurrent of orange-centred fruit that is assertive enough to complement the food.

The overall quality was so impressive that everything disappeared quickly – providing, perhaps, a case for Rebus after all. “Who drank all the beer?” can certainly supplement the traditional question about the fate of the pies.

BEST BUYS

2011 MontGras Reserva Sauvignon Blanc San Antonio, Chile, 13.5 per cent  A newcomer from a family-run winery, this is balanced wine with vibrant gooseberry fruit that gently mellows into something a little closer to lemon on the finish. A terrific crisp and juicy glassful. £6.74 (down from £8.99 until Tuesday), Waitrose

2010 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône Les Vignes Rousses France, 13.5 per cent

With grouse shooting starting tomorrow, thoughts  turn to Rhône reds, and this is a good place to start. Despite a gentle initial impression, it delivers excellent blackcurrant-centred acidity that develops  into savoury liquorice flavours and an excellent black cherry finish.  £6.99, Majestic (as part  of a mixed case of six)