Wine: The shakeout in Kiwi wines is continuing

ALTHOUGH the Rugby World Cup has put the spotlight on New Zealand, Scottish endeavour in that country is not restricted to sport – as the success of the Gladstone Vineyard near Wellington testifies.

Its owners, Christine and David Kernohan, grew up in the south side of Glasgow and married while at university there but then acquired a wander lust.

It was, however, a new academic unit in New Zealand for David’s specialist subject – architecture – that provided the stimulus for action. So, once a career path for Christine had been plotted (that subsequently led to roles in IT and an MBA), suitcases were packed and the adventure began. Things, however, took a very different turn with the acquisition in 1995 of Gladstone Vineyard.

In the 15 years since their takeover, the Kernohans have seen Gladstone grow from a 1,000 case-a-year venture into one covering 50 acres with an annual output of some 15,000 cases. The wines produced are a good mix reflecting a sensible marriage between commercial viability and those chosen out of passion. The 100 or so cases of viognier produced most years certainly falls in the latter category while the nostalgically styled Auld Alliance is a much more serious proposition.

The vines concerned were inherited from the previous owner but no doubt the Kernohan’s Bordeaux-trained first winemaker encouraged the creation of a claret-style blend. The precise components vary from year to year: the 2010 vintage is almost two thirds merlot while two years earlier it was around 60 per cent cabernet franc. I was impressed by that 2008 Gladstone Vineyard Reserve Auld Alliance and its bramble fruit with a perception of sweetness, rounded off with touches of mocha and marzipan.

Another star red is 2009 Gladstone Vineyard pinot noir. This is a terrific fresh, cherry and raspberry-charged wine with warmth and depth and a nice spicy finish; justifiably, it has won a series of awards. A personal favourite emerged among the whites with 2010 Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Gris. This uses a rising grape variety to deliver a smooth wine with vibrant grapefruit acidity yet rich, apricot-style undertones and a nuttiness derived, perhaps, from the oak maturation 15 per cent of the wine experiences.

Finally, comes the 2011 vintage 12,000 Miles Sauvignon Blanc – from the premium range, created with a nod to its distance from Scotland. The wine has a terrific, zingy freshness, with the initial gooseberry nose giving way to a long, sophisticated combination of lime and lemon flavours. As a rough price guide, the whites are in the £12-£15 range while the reds are just under £20.

Another change came four or so years ago with the adoption of new approaches to biological viticulture and Kernohan feels this is already paying dividends through healthier, more durable vines.

Although the shake-out in Kiwi wines is continuing and prices are a worry, Kernohan is optimistic about the 2011 harvest. Cooler weather at critical times has given the grapes an excellent acid structure and seems to be producing welcome lower levels of alcohol. New Zealand, she feels, remains well placed to face the future even if the world’s current love affair with their sauvignon blanc was to subside.

Despite a struggle to sell quantities of riesling, the quality of the country’s pinot gris is gaining international recognition while some insiders are predicting a revival in cool climate chardonnay. With the reds, the future of pinot noir seems assured but superb versions of syrah from, for example, parts of Hawkes Bay suggest a successor is waiting if one is ever needed.

A Scottish supplier for Gladstone Wines comes on line later this year with Must Wines, the mail order outfit based in Dumfriesshire. A glance at the product list (www.mustwines.com) demonstrates that links between Scotland and New Zealand extend well beyond rugby.

2010 Morrisons Best Gavi 2010 Italy, 12 per cent Attractive and fresh, with crisp grapefruit and apple flavours and a mellow finish. £5.49 (down from £7.98 until 23 October), Morrisons

2010 Les Crouzes Old Vines Carignan L’Herault, France, 12.5 per cent Robust with intense flavours of vanilla, chocolate and acidity-fuelled blackcurrant fruit. £4.39 (down from £5.39 until Tuesday), Co-op

2010 Kontoyianni Savatiano Markopoulo, Greece, 12 per cent Nicely balanced white with fresh grapefruit underpinned by a whisper of minerality. £9.99, Penicuik Wines