Wine: Some of France’s lesser known grapes are spectacular with food

If you have ever holidayed in south west France between the Atlantic and Toulouse or between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central, you might well have discovered some of France’s best-kept wine secrets.

WHITE

Vin du Pays du Gers: PUJALET 2009

(£4.99, Waitrose)

Grapes: colombard, ugni blanc.

Food match: lightly spiced Thai fishcakes or mild korma curry.

Proof that not all south west French wines are pricey; lemony, limey, light bodied.

Gaillac: LES GENTILLES PIERRES BLANC 2008 Domaine du Pialentou

(£8.50, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com)

Grapes: sauvignon blanc, mauzac.

Food match: baked trout.

Grassy aromas, delicious rich, nutty, dry palate with fabulous zingy acid notes from the rolling hills surrounding the Tarn valley.

Jurançon: JURANÇON SEC 2008 Château Jolys

(£9.99, Waitrose)

Grapes: gros, petit manseng.

Food match: grilled fish.

Floral aromas, intense citric fruits, vivid acid, minerally length, intriguingly dry white.

ROSÉ

Gaillac: GRAPPES D’OR ROSÉ 2010 Château Lecusse

(£8, www.seabrightandseabright.co.uk)

Grapes: duras, gamay.

Food match: garlic prawns.

Raspberry fruits and piercing acidity to the point of tartness make this dry rosé a fabulous match for seafood; from France’s oldest vineyards between Toulouse and Aveyron.

RED

Marcillac: LO SANG DEL PAIS 2009 Domaine du Cros

(£7.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com)

Grape: fer servadou.

Food match: roast pork or served slightly chilled with charcuterie.

Perfumed, redcurranty, supple fruits, earthy notes and thrilling natural acidity.

Madiran: CHATEAU DE CROUSEILLES 2008

(£17, Spirited Wines, Edinburgh and Glasgow)

Grapes: mainly tannat with cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon.

Food match: roast beef.

Dark chocolate, liquorice and morello cherry fruits: a delicious gutsy red with firm tannins. According to research by Professor Roger Corder, the thick-skinned tannat grape has a high concentration of procyanidins which benefit cardiovascular health, so that may be why Madiran has the largest number of octogenarians in France.

Madiran: CHATEAU AYDIE 2008

(£12.99, Waitrose)

Grape: tannat

Food match: game or mature cheeses

Cherry fruits, powerful, deep, dark, gutsy vanilla notes – from vineyards in the high Pyrenees. It tastes like a cross between claret and chianti.

Vin du Pays du Lot: THE ORIGINAL MALBEC 2010

(£7.67, Asda)

Grape: malbec

Food match: roast duck

From the home of the malbec grape near Cahors: a new modern fruit-forward style with velvet smooth tannins, very svelte, elegant and well-priced.

SWEET

Madiran: PACHERENC DU VIC BILH 2009 Plaimont Co-operative

(£13.79 for 50cl, Corney & Barrow Scotland, Ayr & Pathhead)

Grapes: gros, petit manseng

Food match: blue cheese

Apricot and quince aromas, intriguing, gentle, sweet with fine mineral notes; Plaimont clearly have access to some excellent fruit from their growers.

Jurançon: BALLET D’OCTOBRE 2007 Domaine Cauhape

(£14.50, The Wine Society)

Grape: gros manseng

Food match: fruit dessert

Domaine Cauhape are among my favourite producers: this is fine, clean, elegant, refreshingly fruity with a gentle sweetness and beautifully poised acidity.

• For beginners’ wine courses in Edinburgh and Glasgow, see www.rosemurray brown.com