Wine: Sauvignon blanc has taken a quantum leap forward in quality

IN JUST a decade, Chile has mastered the sauvignon blanc grape. Now you can expect vibrancy, freshness, zesty fruit and a variety of styles from your Chilean sauvignons.

They might not be quite as aromatically pungent as Kiwi examples, but the Chileans can compete very well on price.

The leap in quality is due to the development of the new cooler coastal areas: San Antonio and Limari. Now that their young vines are coming on stream and maturing well, these two areas offer exciting potential.

Two decades ago San Antonio was just dry farmland for cattle. Yet, as it is just a few kilometres from the Pacific Ocean, Chilean pioneers reckoned the area had potential for cool climate grapes – if only they could get access to water. At vast expense, they built a pipeline from the Maipo river several kilometres away.

With cool temperatures, this is winemaking on the edge for the Chileans. It is worth the risk. Since the first plantings by wineries Vina Leyda and Garces Silva, the area now has 957 hectares of sauvignon blanc. Different sub-regions of San Antonio offer a variety of styles: limey tangy in Leyda (Vina Litoral), very vibrant in Lo Abarca (Casa Marin) and rich fragrance in Rosario (Matetic).

Limari Valley (with 169 hectares of the grape) is another exciting area. It was first planted in the 16th century, but until recently it was a forgotten region, supplying grapes for Chile’s Pisco brandy industry.

Pioneers recently spotted Limari’s climatic potential. The cool Camanchaca fog sweeps into this valley from the Pacific in the west, cooling temperatures which retain the acidity in the grapes. With fewer than four inches of rain each year, irrigation is essential here, but Chilean winemakers have now learnt how to carefully control water supplies to the vine (too much water produces high yields and less concentration).

There are still just 12,159 hectares of sauvignon blanc in total in Chile. You can also find it in the newly developed Elqui Valley, far north of Santiago; Casablanca Valley just west of the capital – and to the south of the city, Colchagua, Curico and Bio Bio.

My favourite to date comes from an exciting new joint venture between winemaking guru Ignacio Reccabarren and grape grower Vicente Izquierdo at Vina Litoral – just six miles from the Pacific Ocean.

UNDER £8

Casablanca Valley: EXTRA SPECIAL CHILEAN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 Errazuriz

(£7.48, Asda)

Grassy nose, vibrant, clean and crisp; lacks depth, but good value.

UNDER £10

Leyda Valley: SECANO ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 Vina Leyda

(£8.49, Marks & Spencer)

Gooseberry and lime, succulent and fresh, well priced for a Leyda Valley sauvignon blanc.

Limari Valley: MAYCAS DE LIMARI RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 Concha y Toro

(£9, Tesco)

Green fruit aromas, full ripe citric palate, minerally undertones. Made by the huge Concha y Toro empire, but do not let that put you off.

Colchagua Valley: RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 Casa Silva

(£8.50, Inverarity Vaults, Biggar and Glasgow; Michael Jobling Wines, Newcastle; Frank Stainton, Cumbria)

A very different style from southerly warmer Colchagua, for those who like sauvignon juicy and rich. Vanilla notes, hints of herbs, tropical fruits with a fresh dry finish.

UNDER £12

Leyda Valley: VENTOLERA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 Vina Litoral

(£10.49-£11, www.novumwines.com; www.everywine.co.uk; www.slurp.co.uk; www.greatwinesdirect.co.uk)

A clear winner in our tasting. Lime and floral nose, crunchy succulent fruits, sleek minerally with hint of salty tang. Very good.