Wine: Out of strife, Lebanon has set about rebuilding its wine industry

Everyone likes a good story behind a bottle of wine. And you can't get a more interesting tale than the one from Lebanon, where a revived wine industry has entered a new chapter in its renaissance.

Lebanon's ancient history, dating back to the third century BC when Egyptians traded Lebanese wines from Tyre and Sidon, is well-documented. More recent accounts of Lebanese winemaker Serge Hochar of Chateau Musar, one of very few to continue winemaking throughout the 15-year civil war, is also well-known.

Now, 20 years on, Lebanon, has 33 flourishing wineries, with high altitude vineyards in the Mediterranean climate achieving a great balance of ripe fruit and fresh acidity.

The most prominent newcomer is boutique winery Massaya. Owners Sami and Ramzi Ghosn left Lebanon in 1984, returning to the Bekaa Valley in 1990 to set up a joint venture with three high-profile Frenchmen: the Brunier brothers of Chateauneuf du Pape and Dominic Hebrard of St Emilion.

Other enterprising start-ups include Clos de Cana, based in Ras al Harf in the Lamartine Valley near Mount Lebanon, one of a few outside the popular Bekaa Valley. "I figured that if people wanted to go back to their property after the war they needed something to do," says its owner, Fadi. His first vintage in 2001 shows good potential.

Lebanon's oldest winery, Domaine des Tourelles, has been revived. Set up in 1868 by a French military engineer who settled in the Bekaa Valley, for many years it underperformed, but new owners are improving its potential. The best is their top wine, Marquis des Beys.

This year saw the launch of Lebanon's first certified organic wines, from the Adyar project, a group of eight winemaking Maronite monasteries, and includes Mar Massa in the Metn region, assisted by Frederic Cacchia, a French winemaker.

The best-known winery of all is Chateau Musar. The new generation in charge under Gaston Hochar Jnr have just released their latest vintage of Chateau Musar 2003 as well as three new baby unoaked organic Musars: Jeune white, ros and red.

Other serious wineries to watch include Chateau Ka (its white and red is currently on offer in Waitrose), Domaine Wardy, Chateau Kefraya, Chateau Ksara, Chateau Khoury, Bellevue and Clos St Thomas.

Lebanon on the map:

Chateau Musar 2003 17.99-20

Wine Raks, Aberdeen; Majestic Wine; Raeburn Wines; Villeneuve Wines

New release from the popular Hochar family; plummy, liquorice, very herby, spicy, animal notes, intense rich – 2003 was an excellent Lebanese vintage.

Clos De Cana 200115.80

www.lebanesefinewines.com

Mellow cedary bouquet, rich black fruits, soft developed tannins, good length.

Massaya Classic Red

9.99

Peter Green, WoodWinters

An exotic take on Chateauneuf du Pape; herby, spicy, well-balanced, very smooth, well-integrated.

• This article was first published in The Scotsman on 22 May.