Wine: ‘if pinot grigio goES out of vogue, what will replace it?’

Everyone likes to be in the vanguard when a new fad starts to gain momentum – and now we are probably about due for of one of those changes of direction in the world of white wine. Just as chardonnay replaced riesling in the popularity stakes, only to be toppled by pinot grigio, so one detects an increasing boredom with PG.

So, if pinot grigio does go out of vogue, what will replace it? Some options can be quickly ruled out. Although the demand for sauvignon blanc is immense, it is probably now at its zenith and its moment has passed. In any event, it is likely to have too much acidity for the market we are considering. Acidity may also be an issue for riesling, which of course also suffers from a ‘damaged brand syndrome’ that even taints some of the excellent New World versions.

Likewise, the grape’s obvious association with pinot grigio would probably eliminate those more substantial and textured versions that are labelled pinot gris – despite terrific examples such as the clean, lime-influenced New Zealand 2011 Wither Hills Pinot Gris (£9.99, Waitrose).

What, then, are the remaining candidates? Several years ago, I thought viognier would be one. It had gone from an exclusive and expensive wine in a small corner of the Rhône to something competently made in reasonable volumes across the world.

A good example of the way it encapsulates the floral and fruity demands of this part of the market is 2010 Clay Station Viognier (£8.50, The Wine Society), which has some nice apricot and orange flavours – induced, no doubt, by the Californian sunshine. Sadly, the grape’s propensity to disease and the wine’s tendency to break up quite early seems to rule it out as a long-term crowd-pleaser.

Another candidate with a similar nose and palate to viognier is torrontes, from Argentina, with its soft and aromatic touches of peach. Rather like pinot grigio, it works best when it is grown in cooler areas (like Salta, in the north of the country) and yields are kept low – as with 2011 Tesco Finest Torrontes (£8.99), an attractive version that exudes ripe apple and tropical fruit flavours with hints of honey.

Although torrontes is now Argentina’s most widely planted white grape variety, there has to be a question mark about its capacity to meet a massive demand without compromising on quality.

I did wonder about a candidature for Languedoc’s picpoul de pinet, with its fashionable lemon-based acidity, when it became a cult wine. But again, the limited production area and high acidity of the wine are not good omens. However, to see its obvious attractions, try 2011 Villemarin Picpoul de Pinet (£6.49, Majestic), which has soft but beautifully fresh tropical fruit flavours.

A more conventional option could be South Africa’s chenin blanc, which is well beyond its over-production phase and is now delivering tasty and well-made versions. Try the polished and mellow 2011 Workhorse Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc (£7.99, M&S), which integrates a certain sharpness into the traditional banana flavours.

Suddenly, though, a dark horse has entered the race; it is easy to grow, widely available and has the required aromatic and off-dry credentials. Muscat can also provide attractive sparkling wine. Interestingly, it is becoming increasingly popular among the young, who – allowing the circle a full turn – are attracted by its touches of sweetness. So look out for the gentle, apple-influenced fizz of La Rovere Moscato Spumante (£4.99, Morrisons) or Banrock Station Moscato (£5.49, Sainsbury’s), a version with just 5.5 per cent alcohol.

Perhaps, however, we are barking up the wrong tree by looking for a universally attractive grape at all. Possibly the market is now sufficiently sophisticated to divide into a series of sub-groups, each favouring one of a series of niche wines, with allegiances changing quickly and frequently. Potential niche wines like this could be Italian fiano or grüner veltliner, or possibly even unoaked chardonnay.

All I can suggest, then, is that you give a taste drive to a few of the wines suggested here. And if one of them suddenly becomes stylish, claim you have been drinking it for years.

2007 Unico Brindisi Riserva Southern Italy, 13 per cent

An excellent, typically warming red from the heel of Italy, with touches of cloves, cinnamon and vanilla to supplement its ripe blackcurrant and bramble fruit. Terrific value at a fiver. £4.99 (down from £9.99 until 27 March), Sainsbury’s

2011 Tiki Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand, 12.5 per cent

This blend of grapes from three different areas gives the wine fresh, green pepper flavours and lime-centred acidity but underpins it with a ripe perception of sweetness. £5.99 (down from £8.99 until 20 March), Waitrose