Wine: German wines strive to keep it simple

Indecipherable gothic script, unprounceable names, complicated labels and a fear of sweet wines have driven wine lovers away from German wines to the simply labelled New World ones.

Some German winemakers, such as Ernie Loosen in Mosel or Louis Guntrum in Rheinhessen, have been working hard to simplify their labels and make drier, affordable styles to entice wine lovers back to the valleys of the Mosel and Rhine.

If you know what to buy, German wines can be just as deliciously dry and mouth-wateringly fresh with their high natural acidity – as good, if not better than, any New Zealand or Australian riesling. For those seeking moderation, German wines have the added bonus in that their alcohol levels are almost always lower than their New World counterparts.

I have tried to make it simple for you with my top ten affordable dry and medium dry white, rose and red wines.

TOP TEN FROM MOSEL, RHINE VALLEYS

WHITE

DR L ‘GREY SLATE’ PRIVATE RESERVE RIESLING 2013

Region Mosel

Grape Riesling

Price £9.99, Waitrose

Alcohol 10.5 per cent

Taste Ernie Loosen’s wine has a delicious, juicy tutti-frutti flavour with hints of sweetness, underlying crisp minerality deriving from the slatey soils – and like all good wines, it finishes dry. Serve with summer salads or crab fishcakes.

SAAR RIESLING 2013

Region Saar Valley

Grape Riesling

Price £9.50, The Wine Society, 
www.winesociety.com

Alcohol 10 per cent

Taste A stylish, surprisingly dry (considering its low alcohol) steely riesling from the cool Saar valley. Racy and zippy, this hails from the fine von Kesselstadt estate run by the Reh family who own 36 hectares of top Mosel and Saar valley vineyards. Serve with salmon mousse, pork or even a light fish curry.

DURKHEIMER MICHELSBERG RIESLING TROCKEN 2013

Region Rheinpalz

Grape Riesling

Price £9.49, Marks & Spencer

Alcohol 12.5 per cent

Taste My current favourite German riesling under £15. Beautifully made with poised fruits, orange and melon notes, zippy, minerally and dry. From a single estate in Spielberg made by Helmut Darting. STAR BUY

BINZ & BRATT RIESLING GEWURZTRAMINER 2012

Region Rheinhessen

Grapes 85 per cent riesling and 15 per cent gewurztraminer

Price £14, German Wine 
Agencies, 0207 617 7038, 
www.germanwineagencies.co.uk

Alcohol 12 per cent

Taste An intriguing dry, spicy blend of two famous grapes from the southern Wonnegau area of Rheinhessen. Riesling brings a zippy freshness and gewurztraminer complements with underlying spiciness. Try with lightly spiced oriental dishes or Thai fishcakes.

LOUIS GUNTRUM GRAUBURGUNDER 2012

Region Rheinhessen

Grape Pinot gris

Price £10.99, Marks & Spencer

Alcohol 13 per cent

Taste An unoaked dry pinot gris from one of Rheinhessen’s most distinguished family wineries. This is a deliciously fresh take on a popular French grape, with grapefruit and peach notes adding a creamy richness.

BICKEL STUMPF SILVANER MUSCHLKALK TROCKEN 2013

Region Franken

Grape Silvaner

Price £14.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk

Alcohol 12 per cent

Taste I am a fan of Franken wines, so rarely listed by UK supermarkets. I was delighted to see Laithwaites were stocking this silvaner, the main grape in Franken. Muschlkalk refers to a shell limestone where the silvaner is grown. Trocken indicates it is dry – and this really is whistle dry – but with an attractive peachy nose and earthy notes.

ROSÉ

JOHANN WOLF PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2013

Region Rheinpalz

Grape Pinot noir

Price £9.99, Waitrose

Alcohol 11.5 per cent

Taste This gives a hint of spritz initially followed by light sweetness, finishing dry. This unusual German rosé would appeal to those who normally buy the slightly sweeter, fruity styles of New World rosés. Serve chilled with cold meats or tuna salad.

RED

PALATAIA PINOT NOIR 2012

Region Rheinpalz

Grape Pinot noir

Price £8.99, Marks & Spencer

Alcohol 13.5 per cent

Taste Germany is a significant producer of pinot noir, but we rarely see good value German pinots in the UK. This makes a very good introduction to German reds, with its bright, juicy, crunchy, cranberry and red fruit flavours, touch of oak and soft, rounded smooth finish. Easy drinking and great value. This is made by Gerd Stepp, who for years worked as M&S’s winemaker and is now back in his homeland in Rheinpalz working alongside Matthias Gaul.

KAISERSTUHL PINOT NOIR 2010

Region Baden

Grape Pinot noir

Price £13.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com

Alcohol 13.5 per cent

Taste Baden is home to the country’s pinot noir, particularly from Baden’s famous Kaiserstuhl zone with its warm climate and volcanic soils. Karl Johner makes this charming pinot with a mellow, surprisingly developed aroma, rich cherry fruits and delicious succulent finish. Serve this fine German pinot just chilled with charcuterie or mushrooms on toast. STAR BUY

GEORG FOGT DORNFELDER PORTUGIESER 2011

Region Rheinhessen

Grapes 70 per cent dornfelder and 30 per cent portugieser

Price £14, German Wine 
Agencies, 0207 617 7038; 
www.yorkshirevintners.co.uk

Alcohol 12 per cent

Taste Deep in colour, but surprisingly light in taste, this is made from a blend of the popular dornfelder and Austria’s blau portugieser grape. The soft tannins and round fleshy palate remind me of a very fruity, fresh Beaujolais in style.

• Join Rose’s Introduction to Wine Tasting Series in Edinburgh on 7, 14 and 21 October from £36, 
www.rosemurraybrown.com