Wine: ‘A treasury of information and analysis would disappear’

A popular slogan in the used-vehicle trade used to be “We look at hundreds of cars so you don’t have to.” I was reminded of this sentiment the other day, when browsing the website of the Wine Gang.

The project is the response of five respected wine journalists to the steady drift of readers from the printed word to online information and to the reduction in wine coverage in some UK newspapers. The resulting specialist – but accessible – website seeks to reunite wine enthusiasts with the treasury of information and analysis that otherwise would disappear.

To preserve independence, the site (www.thewinegang.com) does not accept advertising, and its database of assessments on some 8,000 wines is open to everyone paying the £19.99 annual subscription. Each month, gang members taste thousands of wines, and every issue of the Wine Gang Report contains the consensus view on up to 200 of them (including the month’s five best-value wines); all this is updated via an interim report mid-month.

To give you the flavour behind the idea, the September issue revisited the 2000 Bordeaux vintage and also took a detailed look at the wine lists of three independent wine merchants and five national retailers (Waitrose, Tesco, M&S, the Co-op and Majestic). Recent commendations include 2010 Zarcillo Gewürztraminer (£6.25, The Wine Society) from Bío Bío, at the southern end of Chile’s wine-growing regions. It is an aromatic white with lychee and nettle flavours, given freshness by what the Gang describes as “a great whoosh of grapefruit acidity”. Elsewhere in the whites, 2010 Rocca Vecchia Falanghina, from Puglia, Italy (£5.99, The Co-op), is praised for its “textured, ripe and quite rich palate” and its “appealing apple and stonefruit” tanginess.

Then comes New Zealand’s 2010 Blind River Sauvignon Blanc (£9.99 until end of this month at Majestic), with its “intense concentration”, “punchy aromatics” and figgy or nutty touches – probably from exposure to oak.

Turning to the reds, accolades go to the good-value, cherry and blackberry-charged 2009 Tesco Finest Argentina Malbec (£6.49), from Mendoza, with its “vivid, spicy fruit and appealing freshness”. And to an Old World representative, the 2009 Castelmaure, Corbières (£6.99, Morrisons). This has “juicy, supple black fruit” topped off with “lavender and wild herb” aromas and is made from a blend of carignan, grenache and syrah.

Returning to South America, special mention goes to 2008 Viña Mayu Selected Vineyards Syrah (£9.49, Waitrose), from the rising stars being produced in Chile’s Elqui Valley. This delivers complex and juicy “cherry-like fruit and black-pepper intensity“ in a style reminiscent of quality Rhône.

Although reading about wine is enjoyable, it comes a poor second to actually drinking it. For opportunities to put that right, the Wine Gang organises its own annual Wine Fair in London. Now, however, Scots can sample the practical results of the Gang’s efforts, as the Fair is coming to the capital this year. More than 300 wines will be on show, with a wide range of specialists from the participants also attending. Exhibiters include generic bodies, local retailers and UK-wide operations. Many exhibitors will be offering pre-Christmas discounts. There are also a series of master classes with the likes of Anthony Rose and Tom Cannavan. n

The Wine Gang Christmas Fair, on 12 November, noon to 6pm, at Merchant Hall, Edinburgh (www.TicketSOUP.com); Scotland on Sunday readers should quote TWG2011 when booking to receive a 30 per cent discount (£14 instead of £20)

2011 Boschendal Sauvignon Blanc Paarl, South Africa; 13.5 per cent Crisp and floral new vintage white with lemon flavours supported by white currant and apricot to provide an appealing perception of sweetness. £6.99, Majestic

2010 Notre Dame de Cousignac Vivarais, France; 14 per cent A substantial, mellow and long Rhône-style blend with good acidity and plum and cherry fruit set against a slightly floral backdrop. £5.95, The Wine Society.

2010 Wakefield Estate Riesling Clare Valley, Australia; 12.5 per cent Superbly clean and fresh wine with vibrant lime-based acidity, real depth and a touch of minerality. £9.49, Raeburn Fine Wines Comely Bank Road, Edinburgh.