Wine: A revolution is afoot in Sapin and Portugal

Over two decades before this year’s events obliged Spain and Portugal to accept major change was inevitable, many of the region’s younger winemakers had reached a similar conclusion

For sure, the commercial success of new world wines was a catalyst but not every European country saw either the need to be radical or the urgency. Thus, New Wave Spanish Wines were born.

Possibly using Australia as inspiration, the first results were highly concentrated reds supercharged with oak but that was subsequently toned down into wines that are still recognisable as, for example, rioja yet significantly more fruit-forward than their predecessors. For an inexpensive example of the genre, try the youthful plum and black cherry flavours of Tiers 1 Rioja Joven Tempranillo which Asda sells for about £4. For more serious stuff, seek out 2007 Bodegas Amaren Angeles de Amaren Tempranillo Graciano (around £21 at Peter Green in Edinburgh) with its smooth but spicy touches of dark red fruit.

Another aspect of the changes was an increased awareness in the rest of the world of top-class wines from areas such as Catalonia and La Mancha. Once upon a time, if the wine was not rioja it was unlikely to go beyond its home market. Happily, however, some terrific wines from other parts of Spain are now firmly part of the landscape. Look, for instance, at the intense bramble and mulberry-charged 2009 Tinto Figuero Roble ‘4’ (£12 at Henderson Wines) from Ribera del Duero.

Nevertheless, probably the biggest recent change is the improvement in the quality of white wines. Much of the credit must go to figures like Miguel Torres and features such as stainless steel containers and temperature controlled fermentation. In, too, have come international varieties such as sauvignon blanc and chardonnay to fresh up, but not replace, local grapes. Although quality from those indigenous varieties can be patchy, an absolute star has risen in the west (Galicia, to be precise, with its signature grape albarino). Try the mellow, greengage and fruit salad flavours of 2010 Tesco Finest Albarino (around £8) or, for a couple of pounds more, go online to Waitrose Direct for the clean and lively lemon touches of 2010 Vina Taboexa Albarino.

Typical, however, of Spain’s readiness to promote something different is 2009 Suertes del Marques Blanco Barrica from Tenerife. It uses the sherry grape, palomino (under its French name, listan) and five months in oak to produce a smooth, polished white with buttery, lemon fruit and touches of mango and butterscotch. I hope it comes to the UK before too long.

Over in Portugal, there has also been a metamorphosis in white wines, with some really unusual examples such as a spicy 2009 Valle Pradinhos from Tras-os-Montes with light but firm peach-based fruit. That sits alongside some of the lively, lemon and green apple vinho verde now available. A favourite from elsewhere is 2006 Quinta Dos Carvalhais Colheita Seleccionada (£20, [email protected]). It combines verdelho and a couple of years in oak to create wine with orange and white peach fruit with a nutty, vanilla finish.

My focus on whites doesn’t mean, however, that reds have been ignored because excellent examples abound. Consider the tremendous raspberry, forest fruit and mocha touches of 2006 Vinhas da Ira (£26, www.castas.co.uk). Equally, who can fail to love the soft, gentle, black cherry flavours of 2010 Afros Vinho Verde Vinhao Tinto (£12.49, Noel Young Wines) which works best chilled

These trends are excellent signs of the revolution afoot in wine regions that seemed locked in conservatism for much of the last century. So, even if you have already warmly embraced ‘new wave’ wines, keep your eyes open; it is very much a moving target.

2010 Las Falleras Tinto Utiel Requena, Spain, 12 per cent A light, easy-drinking red with smooth plum and cherry fruit. £4.49 (or £3.37 in a six+ bottle offer that ends next weekend), M&S

2010 Macon-Villages La Cote Blanche Burgundy, France, 13 per cent Excellent value combining ripeness and rounded acidity within its appealing clean and nicely balanced lemon flavours. £5.99 (reduced from £7.99), Sainsbury’s

2010 Anakena Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Requinoa, Chile, 13 per cent Smooth and intense with a mint and pepper finish. £7.99, The Whisky Trails, Edinburgh