Tom Kitchin: Mussels are tastiest just before they spawn

AS THE end of winter approaches, many of us are still seeking out healthy, hearty meal options that satisfy both appetites and budgets. Mussels are often seen as the poor man’s shellfish, but not only are they affordable and abundant, they’re also hugely versatile and incredibly tasty when cooked freshly and simply.

Mussels are at their plumpest and juiciest right before they spawn, towards the end of February. You may have heard the saying that you should only eat mussels when there is an ‘r’ in the month and there is some truth in that, as they are at their best between September and April, outside the breeding season. They are better in the colder months, as the icy waters mean they are more succulent. As well as being quick and easy to cook, they are also incredibly nutritious and so make a fantastic lunch, starter or supper.

As with any shellfish, the fresher the mussels, the better they taste. Newly caught shellfish, prepared and cooked within a matter of hours, is a real treat. In Scotland we are absolutely blessed with a natural larder that is rich in fish and shellfish, so it’s worth a visit to your local fishmonger to make the most of what we have right on our doorsteps.

And with so much focus on the sustainability of seafood today, you can be sure that mussels are also one of the most environmentally sound fish or shellfish available.

When it comes to preparing mussels, make sure you have a good look at them and avoid any that are broken or damaged. Unless you know how fresh they are, I would always suggest that you eat them on the day you buy them. If you do know they are fresh from the sea, you can keep them in the fridge for up to two days. They need to be able to breathe to stay healthy ,so keep them in an open container covered by a clean, damp cloth.

Before you start cooking, be sure to wash all the blue-black shells well under cold running water and get rid of any sand, barnacles and stringy beards before cooking them. I always relish the sound of the mussel shells muddling together as I wash them. If you come across any that are open, tap their shells – if they stay open, discard them right away.

Once you’re ready to start cooking, place the mussels in the bottom of a large, heavy-based pan with a small amount of liquid and turn up the heat to steam them. Mussels actually need very little cooking time, and the trick is to remove them from the pan as soon as they begin to open. Don't overcook them or you'll end up with rubbery flesh. Throw away any that don’t open during the cooking process.

When it comes to the flesh of the mussels, colour is not indicative of quality or cooking time – orange flesh tells you the mussel is female, while a whiter colour suggests a male.

To get a taste that’s straight from the sea you can pour the cooking juices back into the shells of the mussels, or the juices can be kept and used to make a fresh sauce to have with pasta or risotto. This will give any dish a delicious, fresh flavour.

There are a huge variety of mussel recipes to try, from classic to a little more creative or adventurous. French for ‘mariner's mussels’, moules marinière is a simple and classic way to prepare these affordable shellfish, yet delivers a restaurant-style dish that makes an impressive starter or a simple supper served with fresh, crusty bread. Nothing quite beats soaking up the last of the sauce from a big, deep bowl, so make sure you have lots of bread to accompany your dish.

As well as many classic French dishes, mussels also lend themselves to a combination of south-east Asian flavourings such as coconut, ginger, lemongrass and chilli – ideal combined in a tasty broth.

There’s are few things more enjoyable than eating shellfish, and you can eat mussels straight from the shell no matter what dish they’re in, either by scooping them out with your fork or – a much better and more fun way to eat them – by using an empty shell as a pincer to scoop out the flesh.

If you’re being a little more adventurous and want to compliment the mussels with some other fresh shellfish, this shellfish marinière is the perfect dish and a unique twist on the classic moules marinière. You will also need razor clams (or ‘spoots’, as they’re known) and cockles. Razor clams are known as spoots because of the way they spout up air through the sand. They are relatively easy to get hold of, and your local fishmonger will be happy to order some in for you if they don’t have them. They can also be bought live and should be stored in a similar way to mussels.

With so much delicious Scottish shellfish available, you can prepare an easy and versatile supper on a budget yet still delight family or guests. All you need to do is decide which recipe to try first.

RECIPES

Shellfish Marinière

Serves four

2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

400g mussels, washed and debearded

400g cockles, washed and cleaned

400g razor clams, washed and cleaned

300ml white wine

1 handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

In a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan, sauté the shallots in olive oil until they are soft and translucent. Season to taste. Add the garlic, bay leaf and thyme.

Over a high heat, add the shellfish to the shallot mixture and toss to coat. Pour in the wine and cover with a lid. Cook for five to seven minutes, until the shellfish begin to open – discard any that do not.

Remove from the heat and mix in the freshly chopped parsley.

Spaghetti and mussels

Serves two

500g mussels

salt and pepper

200g spaghetti

2 tsp vegetable oil

2 tsp shallots, peeled and chopped

50ml dry white wine

300ml double cream

small bunch dill, roughly chopped

small bunch parsley, roughly chopped

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and diced

Scrub the mussels well in cold water and remove their stringy beards. Tap any open mussels and if they do not close up tightly, throw them away.

Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add some salt and cook the pasta for eight to ten minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a heavy-bottomed pan and add a teaspoon of vegetable oil. Cook a teaspoon of the shallots for a few seconds, then add the mussels. Immediately pour in the wine, cover and leave to cook for about two minutes, or until all the shells are open. Throw away any mussels that do not open. Strain and reserve the cooking liquid, and set the mussels aside to keep warm.

Next, cook the remaining shallots in the rest of the oil until soft. Add the reserved cooking liquid and reduce by half. Season, add the cream and reduce again slightly before adding the cooked mussels.

By this time the pasta should be ready, so strain it through a colander and then toss with the mussels and cream mixture. Add freshly chopped dill, parsley and diced tomato and serve in warm bowls.