Tom Kitchin: ‘I look forward to the Glorious Twelfth with heart-racing passion and excitement’

The species is unique to Scotland and the north of England, and the date heralds one of the busiest shooting days of all. This year, however, the momentous occasion will fall tomorrow, as UK law says that the start of the season cannot fall on a Sunday.

Every year I look forward to this day with genuine, heart-racing passion and excitement. Readers will be well aware of my fanatical approach to seasonal cooking, but more than any other seasonal milestone the arrival of the very first grouse in Scotland is still one of my most memorable and thrilling moments.

Because grouse are not, and never have been, reared to any extent for shooting, their numbers fluctuate naturally from year to year. They also rely heavily on the natural environment, as their diet consists almost entirely of heather. This year, I’m lucky enough to be expecting about 40 or 50 fresh grouse to meet first-day demand from our diners – some of whom have been booked in at The Kitchin for a whole year. This is a testament that I’m not the only one with a passion for the occasion.

Scotland is becoming more renowned for its premium ingredients but grouse is one national treasure that has always generated demand from all over the world among chefs and luminaries. Everyone wants to get their hands on the very first, glorious fresh grouse of the season, and have it on their menu as close as possible can to 12 August. Results of the first few days of shooting are delivered to top chefs not only in the UK but on a global scale. It’s one of the reasons I feel so honoured to be able to work with and serve some of the very best grouse in Scotland when it’s entirely fresh and bang in season.

My day on the Glorious Twelfth follows a similar ceremony every year, although this year it will be slightly different – but only in the timing of collecting the grouse. This year we will collect the grouse tomorrow, ready in time for opening on Tuesday morning. I always make sure to visit my trusted gamekeeper to collect the birds myself. I cherish nothing more than getting my hands on the grouse on the first day of shooting, when they are still warm and as fresh as they can be.

With the birds ready and waiting at the restaurant, our back door on Commercial Street will be a glorious sight for all to see on Tuesday morning. My brigade of chefs and I will be at the restaurant even earlier than usual, getting the collection of birds ready for our diners. We spend the morning plucking, tying and preparing the beautiful birds. My heart pounds with excitement every time. This buzz encompasses what I love about being a chef in Scotland, having access to such great seasonal produce.

When it comes to enjoying grouse, I think it’s best to keep it simple. My classic recipe uses all parts of the produce, something I’m also incredible passionate about. The flavour you get from grouse is intensely deep, complex and fresh. It’s a nimble bird and its diet of wild heather results in a strong, almost musky meat with no fat – meaning that little needs to be done in the way of adding flavouring. When I remove the stomach sack of the grouse, I usually find large amounts of heather inside. That gives me a thrill as I like to think of the grouse truly being flavoured by nature.

Cooking time will depend on the age of the bird, and the younger it is the less cooking time is required. I only use young grouse as I find them more tender and tasty than those hung for a long time, but it’s up to your individual taste. When preparing grouse at home, you can check the age of the bird with your butcher, but generally young birds can be cooked in as little as 12 minutes.

With such a celebratory occasion, I always like to make sure the entire experience of eating the grouse is perfect. We’ve managed to find the ideal wine pairing for the bird in a wonderful pinot noir from Baden, in Germany, thanks to our trusted supplier L’Art du Vin (www.aduv.co.uk). The Pinot Noir Malterdinger 2010, from Bernhard Huber, is one of the best reds we’ve tasted all year and The Kitchin and its sister restaurant, Castle Terrace, will be the first in the UK to serve the wine to mark the start of the glorious grouse season. Despite strong demand for the wine throughout the world, until now it has only ever been exported to the US and Japan. It’s a complex yet very elegant wine – the perfect partner to grouse. Packed with juicy red fruit and black cherry characters, it has a delicate earthiness that compliments the grouse’s flavour. It’s pretty close to gastro-heaven – a grouse dish with an outstanding glass of complementary red wine.

If you haven’t tried grouse yet, I recommend doing so as it makes an unforgettable meal. Grouse enjoyed near the Glorious Twelfth is about as seasonal as you can get.

Roasted Scottish Grouse with Pate and Bread Sauce

Serves four

4 butchered grouse (ask to keep the livers and hearts)

4 slices bacon

50g butter

sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

olive oil

bunch watercress

Pre-heat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7, then prepare the grouse by layering the bacon over the breast of each bird and tie with string around it. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat a non-stick frying pan and add a splash of olive oil. Place each grouse breast-side down in the pan and colour  for one or two minutes. Turn  and cook for another minute or two, until golden all around.

Once the grouse is coloured all over, add the butter and allow it to start to fold. Add  the thyme and bay leaf and place in the oven for ten to  12 minutes – cook it pink  or as you like it.

Once cooked, remove the grouse from the oven and the pan and leave to rest. Reserve any juices and set aside.

For the bread sauce

½ onion

1 clove

1 bay leaf (stud the clove into the bay leaf, then the onion)

1 pint milk

200g white bread (broken into pieces and crusts discarded)

salt

pepper

pinch nutmeg

25g butter

olive oil

Bring the milk to the boil and add the studded onion, nutmeg and the white bread pieces. Mix well together for one or two minutes. Add the butter and season to taste.

Once cooked out, whizz with a hand blender and set aside.

For the paté

4 croutons of bread, cut into heart shapes and toasted

grouse hearts and  livers, chopped

1 tsp shallots, finely chopped

½ clove garlic, chopped

1 tsp parsley, chopped

50g butter

splash brandy

Heat a non-stick frying pan  and add a splash of olive  oil. Once hot, add the hearts and livers and sauté. Season to taste.

Add the chopped shallots, garlic and parsley. De-glaze  the pan with the brandy and then cook out until it is absorbed. Set aside to cool.

Place on a chopping board and chop the hearts and livers very finely before adding to the paté mixture. Spread the paté over the toasted croutons.

Warm up the grouse in the oven and serve with the bread sauce, paté croutons and a sprig of watercress to granish.